Ondra’s #LastBoulderDance and a long awaited comeback! 🦸‍♂️

The Czech capital is set to welcome a Boulder stop of the IFSC World Cup Series for the third consecutive season.

Men’s Boulder results: https://ifsc.hopp.to/pg25mbr
Women’s Boulder results: https://ifsc.hopp.to/pg25wbr

In this episode:

0:00 – Intro
0:32 – Cody Grodzki comments Adam Ondra’s semi-final boulders
6:09 – Popular predictions
8:19 – Men’s Boulder final highlights

🌍 IFSC website: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org
📰 More news: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/news
✍️ Subscribe: https://ifsc.hopp.to/ytsub24
🧗 Athletes: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/rankings/index
📅 Calendar: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/calendar

#WorldClimbing

hello and welcome to the World Climbing Club as you can see the rain is falling but we are still having a fantastic time and we’re going to start things off with the semifinals adam Andra’s runs all commentated and discussed by one of our root setters all right so we have Adam here on Boulder One um bunch of AX volumes and uh some flat hold and super mixed in as well and and really this is just a a straightforward power boulder we really want to test the climber on their uh their raw physical ability yeah so Adam goes uh crimp to crimp here a little bit of a shoulder move and then extends all the way through uses his body length really well here you can kind of see his left hand to his left foot uh being able to achieve that jib next sequence here you’re going to see a lot of shuffling of his feet he’s going to go right foot to the jib left foot to the jib right foot to the jib left foot to the jib as he kind of like works his way through this compression sequence between the super pinches and and the flat hold crimp pinches on his way to the 25 to the top um and I really like what he does here he flips this crimp that we had uh stacked on top of another like bigger edge and turns it into a really wide pinch we did try this in a in a couple different methods for testing this is in in my opinion the the best way to do this move just because it allows more control uh pinches you just have a little bit more control than than just a straightforward grip and then basically once he finds the right body position here for for himself you can see that he’s getting a little bit tired he’s fighting his way through and I think this really you can kind of see as Adam releases he just uh starts to kind of fall away and I think it’s because he doesn’t have enough pull uh left in him on that attempt boulder two um this is a really fun boulder it allowed uh allowed us to explore and ask a lot of questions to the climber about their their pure technical prowess so on Adam’s first attempt he kind of tries to fight through using his you know just uh amazing strength um but it kind of forces his hand a bit because he’s not in the right body position to move through the sequence you really want to um use the best parts of the volume so you can see on his second attempt here where his right foot is it’s a little bit lower and his ankle’s turned in a little bit more and once he finds that that better body position for his hips then he’s allowed to use that left hand uh Cheetah Stadium series um pinch he’s kind of using as a pinch right now and the bottom is textured the top where his fingers are is no text um so you don’t really get a ton out of it but it’s just enough to press to push your your hips over your right foot as you can see here and then bring that left foot up um and as you can see this zone hold here is nothing um for those of you in the EU this is basically the size of or the thickness of a euro doesn’t have an edge to it it’s actually um kind of rounded and flat and smooth so you see him trying to get as much out of it as he can but because it’s tapered to the wall you really can’t even get a fingernail behind it a few tries later Adam does find that realizes oh I don’t need to pull so much on this hold and can dive his right foot over to the jib and then the next sequence here what we saw um Sarat do really well is snatch just jump up powerfully and snatch that right hand now the concept here that we were really uh looking for is that the hand is great it’s a very very I mean great it’s a it’s a sloy hold but relative to the rest of the holds on the boulder it’s it’s the best one uh it’s very slloy though um and what this forces is you to land your right foot on this little jib stack so if you miss the jib stack there’s no possible way that you can recover and hold this pretty positive hold boulder free uh very tricky no text hold start here you’re going to redirect around the corner and once you do you’re going to land your right foot on that Art Lab plate uh that yellow one there once you get this good swing 1 2 3 4 with the hands and if you land just right you’ll arrive uh on that upper flat hold Aix volume stack in a pretty solid position and then you see Adam fight here through a threw a heel hook in puts him in a little bit of a compromising position we saw some other climbers just kind of smear on the wall and commit uh but ultimately Adam does achieve this uh top hold that was a really exciting boulder the crowd went nuts boulder forward didn’t see a top um unfortunately you know we we always like to see a boulder uh topped we we got really close on a couple of occasions but effectively here the intention was this big swoop over into some compression we have some cheetah holds here with some of the macros the Taji macros as well as the boomerangs uh Adam tries a couple different betas and I think that’s really smart it’s a it’s a really good competitive uh mindset to try a couple of different things uh he ends up going back to the compression kind of goes away from the uh the tow hook version which I think the tow hook version to me wasn’t really an option uh in testing it’s just the the angle of the holds and the way that your body’s moving through as you’re as you’re exiting that starting position and you’re going into the reception it just isn’t there and so we can see Sorato um try the same thing a couple times here really raw contact strength in that right hand which does help tremendously um through this movement but he as you can see stops that motion really well he even does a little like you know ghost bump with his left hand because he’s on that right hand so well at that point and then he’s able to statically pull through to the tent which is totally fine by us but then he’s forced to campus cut his feet right here and commit pull a little bit with that right hand and then launch over uh to that right hand boomerang and then simultaneously kick that cheetah skyball uh volume stack right it’s almost time for finals and there really is a party atmosphere here in Prague despite the mud who cares yeah hello man hello hello hello how are you are you looking forward to the competition yeah of course it’s amazing to be here but it’s raining are you not worried about that no I’ve got my rain jacket on and I’m I’m looking forward to the finals it’s amazing to be here really it really who’s going to win tonight do you think i mean Saraku is like for me the the like the winner qualifications semifinals crazy work the first bowler only wants to top it so like I think Sarat will win it tonight amazing enjoy the competition see you soon how are you guys do you speak English yes yes what’s your names my name is Lucas and I’m Karolina now you got I’m very impressed with your jackets but yours looks very professional yours does look a bit like a bin bag i’ll be honest we we try to be ready in any options so So who is going to win tonight do you think let’s see i’m not sure in my opinion it’s going to be Sorato or Shark enjoy the comp guys thank you so much madam you you are smiling despite the rain uh are you ready for the competition tonight yes i’m so excited for the finals who do you think is going to win tonight oh I’ve got a favorite um probably that is a very popular choice all right good luck good luck from the rain i’ll see you in a bit right oh now this I have to talk to this man here hello sir how you doing you I’m good i I had to talk to you because you have the most ridiculous wet weather gear I’ve seen in the entire comp just the head protected yeah just the head protected just necessary and we do what we can do with this weather it’s all good we’re having a good time aren’t we ah this is the second half of your fashion french fashion french fashion so where did you get the French fashion from the cheese see this is recycling at its best get a t-shirt put the bag on your head perfect right well it’s raining super hard i got to go commentate so let’s find out who is going to win in the finals the men’s final was a spectacular fair it all came down to an exciting and last climb with some wild moves along the way the crowd were hyped despite the weather cheering the athletes on slovenia’s Anj Pak was eighth on the night his second finals of the year and he quickly got Boulder One done which featured a cool collection of small white crimps in the middle korea’s Dohan Lee qualified in fourth for the finals but after a flash on Boulder 1 he struggled on the running slab of Boulder 2 it was clearly frustrating and he went time and time again eventually ending in seventh sixth was awarded to Hannis Van Dyson he also topped boulders one and three but it was boulder two that made him jump above Dhan Lee he ran across a slab in a variety of ways and a zone in eight and 59.9 it was Eufi Pan’s first final the Chinese athlete putting in a brilliant performance in semis to guarantee his place it was Boulder three where he shined an impressive outrageous piece of flexibility on the blue volume zone hold to get him to the top in fourth was Japan’s Saut Amagasa he was only a few decimal points higher than Eui Pan it was flashes of one and two that made the difference in the points coming into the final boulder he could have got a medal but he couldn’t work out the press move just getting the zone so podium places and Francis Samuel Richard put in the performance of a lifetime in his first ever finals boulder four was where he pulled out all the stops the crowd held its breath as he climbed closer getting it on his second attempt in an incredible performance all night it went back and forth between Medi Shal and Serato and Raku serato flashed Boulder one but Boulder two got away from him majesty meanwhile sent Boulder two on his seventh attempt which heaped the pressure on Serato so final climb if Medi got it he would win let’s jump into the live with co- commentator and root setter Cody Grodsky considering no one’s got close to topping this yet well sorry Sam tops it what am I talking about but you know it’s it’s a big ask to top this thing and that might be enough for him so here he goes again lance presses better he’s so good if he swings he’s got a minute 40 here he’s got to figure this out cuz if he doesn’t he leaves the door open he’s got to close the door right now exactly this This is the right he’s doing it right he’s doing it right come on now Messi he returns though a little bit high with the hands he’s sitting on the foot here we go yes it is for me that is a long ball guaranteed ser can’t catch him now and Messi celebrating a cup from Medi serato got it in four tries and claimed the silver medal what an end to an epic battle that’s it for today’s show tomorrow we will return for the women’s side of things as we do it all again to find our medal winners