Building the CRAZIEST Cleveland wedges ever!

You’ve NEVER seen wedges like this before… insane stamping, wild finishes — this set breaks ALL the rules. Watch as Club Junkie takes you inside the shop to build the most outrageous, one-of-a-kind wedge set in golf history. You won’t believe how these turned out 😱👀

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So, a few weeks ago, I built a crazy set of Mazuno irons, some JPX 925 forges in different colors and all that. They’re pretty cool. And I’ve been looking around and I want to do some more crazy stuff. So, today we’re going to build the craziest wedge set you’ve ever seen. And this one goes beyond I think the Mazuno set even. We’re going all out. So, we have some crazy Cleveland custom wedge heads. They have this new custom program. You can etch, add stampings, change paint fill, all that. So, we’ve got three different heads here, three different finishes. The tour rack, the uh tour chrome or tour satin and the uh black finish. So, we have these all laser etched. Looking amazing. Uh we’ve actually got some pretty wild shafts from KBS. These are Seaper lights in the rainbow PVD finish. Uh they’ve got the brushed uh kind of brush finish to it and then they put this rainbow PVD over it, which is absolutely awesome. Totally crazy looking. Uh we have three of those. And then we’ve got uh some really cool lizard skin wrap grips. These are BB49s in a few different colors. So we’ve got some wild stuff there. And then uh I actually just went on Amazon and found these crazy kind of like gold flake fererals. Uh and and picked up some of these. So this whole set is just going to be kind of totally colorful, totally crazy, uh but it should still perform really well. So let’s get to building this set. I think it’s going to be a ton of fun, and I actually can’t wait to see how it looks when it’s done. All right. So, the first thing I like to do is I mark each shaft so I know what what is what. So, this is for the 50°. And we need to prep the tips on these. So, this one here, we’re going to go through, slide these on, and I take my Sharpie and just kind of mark where uh the the shaft kind of centers on here. That way, you can easily sand off the right amount to the tip and prep it when it’s ready. And I just take a little Sharpie, mark it off there, go to the next one. This is the 56. Uh, put it in there. And then uh this way when I do these I know which one is which. And then when I trim them down uh it’s easy to know which is uh which one there. But do a quick little line on there and that way I know I’m going to have to sand that much of the PVD off uh in order to have a good bond with the epoxy in the head. All right. So this is my belt sander. I’m going to use this to prep the tips on here. You could of course just use regular sandpaper. You don’t need if you don’t have a belt sander, do it. Not a big deal. But uh this will get it a little loud. So hopefully I edit it right and it doesn’t blow your ear drums out if you’re wearing uh wearing headphones. But we’ll just sand the tips on these. Get it down to the bare metal. That way we have a good bond with our epoxy. So just leave it light. Doesn’t need to be anything crazy. Just enough to take that PVD off. make it raw metal. That way it’ll bond well. All right. So, what I like to do with mine is I like to kind of dry fit mine. So, take out the uh the ruler here and we’ll grab which one here we got first. We got the 50. I’ll put the 50 head on here. And what I like to do is kind of set these up. And I like to cut them before I swing weight them. So, put the club ruler on here. And these start out at 35 and 3/4. So, we’ll make our mark there for that. And then, uh, we will do the next one. And like I said, I like to kind of do dry fit mine, cut them, uh, and then swing weight them. I know some people will kind of do, uh, their stuff in a little slightly different order, but this, for me, I think, makes it out the best way possible. So, that there. So, this is going to be 35 and a half. And then all right, now let’s cut these down. I always say measure twice though. Go through and measure twice before you cut them to make sure that you get these to the right uh length and you don’t have to make them too short and sand them off. Don’t want any sharp edges on there to hurt you. All right. So, now we’re going to swing weight these bad boys. see if we need to add any tip weights. Grab this thing, put it on here, and then uh we’ll see where this thing goes. Move this back a little. And then I’m going to take uh the grip and put on whatever grip I’m going to actually use on here. We’ll go blue on the 50. I think that’ll look good. And then uh see where we’re at. So, we’re about D1. I would love to be a little bit heavier than that. So, I want to make them D the 50° the D3. So, I’m going to need 4 g pretty much to get it to D3 cuz we’re basically D1 and a half. Uh, so we’ll add a 4 g tip weight on this one and uh and glue it up. And then we’ll see. So, that one’s four. The 56. I’m going to do these with the grip I’m going to put on there. And on this one, I think we’re going to go with the orange weight or the orange grip on here. And on this one, it looks like we are at just about D almost D3, D2 and a half. So, this one is pretty close to where I like it. I’m going to add a 2 g tip weight on this one. I like to get it to right around uh full D3. Uh you know, maybe just a hair over uh for my 56. I don’t go crazy heavy on my uh my swing weights. I know some people do on their wedges. I like to keep it around D3, maybe D4 for the lob wedge. So, let’s see. Uh the lob wedge here. We’ll see what we got. We’re going green grip on the lob wedge. This one looks like it’s D. Oops, I’m going the wrong way. What am I doing? This one’s already about D3. See, that one’s D3 as it is. So, I might add two grams, maybe make a D4, but that’s pretty darn close. So, I’m going to make everything right around D3 on this one. And, uh, we’re pretty darn close with these head weights. So, uh, not much tip weights, which is nice. All right, now it’s time to glue these bad boys up. I’m using 3M’s, uh, DP8410NS. Uh, this is an acrylic epoxy uh, or an acrylic uh, adhesive that I’ve been using for a few years now. It actually works really well. It’s uh the weird thing is it’s a 10 to one mix. So it definitely looks weird when there’s only a small amount of the little you know blue section or blue part and a good amount of the uh the other part. But this stuff is pretty thick uh which I kind of like cuz it takes up a lot of the the space in the hoszles. I’ve actually never had a problem with this stuff. I wanted to use 80 just 810 uh from 3M like the same stuff they use on tour but it’s just crazy expensive. So, this stuff is definitely a little bit more uh inexpensive uh and it works uh really really well. So, just make sure you mix it up uh you know, so it’s this kind of light blue color and that’s when you’re ready to go. And I like to kind of do each wedge wedge individually just because I don’t know, I don’t have to worry about dry times or anything like that. Uh so, the first thing I usually do is throw a little bit of epoxy inside the fereral to help keep it on. It can still get some crepe anyway, but I like to put a little bit on there just to help it. And then I’ll put uh push this down a little. And then take some of your epoxy there. You don’t need to put an absolute ton. This isn’t a competition on how much epoxy you can put in the head, but rub it. Get it in there. Make sure it kind of covers all the walls. And then I like to take my tip weight, put a touch of epoxy inside there to kind of hold it in place so it doesn’t rattle around or move around. And I like watching the slow creep down. And then take some of your epoxy here. And we’re going on the actual shaft itself. So I like to do both. I know some guys don’t. Some guys will just do the hoszle or the shaft. And uh I think either way is kind of fine. I like to make sure everything’s coated. So, excess off. And then as I go in, I like to kind of rotate it a little bit. Make sure everything’s coated well as it goes in. And once you’re in, give it a little tap. Make sure it’s seated. And then a little bit of paper towel to wipe off the epoxy. Now, this stuff here is definitely a little thicker, so it takes a little more to wipe it off, but it’s uh once you get it off there, it’s pretty good. So once it’s off there, like I said, you’ll see maybe see a little residue, but that’ll clean up off the fereral actually really easy uh when we actually finish it. So let’s glue the rest of these up. And then also too with these, the PVD is a little different. Like you can go kind of blue on top. Uh you can go more of the purple on top. I’m going to do this one uh a little more of the blue and green. And then uh we’ll do maybe one of the other ones with some purple hanging up there. So pretty cool there. [Music] Heat. Heat. N. Heat. Heat. [Music] [Applause] [Music] N. Heat. Heat. [Music] [Music] Down. All right. So, we got to grip these bad boys up. Put our rubber shaft shaft clamp on there. Go a little tight. And then you want to make sure these grooves here are vertical, perfectly straight up and down. And then we got to grab our grip. Actually got to put our catch pan here for all our solvent. And then kind of measure out what we need for tape here. I’ll take a pen, just do like kind of a quick mark on there where the tape goes or how far it needs to go down. And then we’ll do tape. You want to make sure that the best you can put your tape on there. Leave a little excess. So, got about an inch or so, maybe a half inch on the back end to fold over. And then rub that on there, make it stick. And then when you fold this over, you want to try to make sure that you don’t have any big wrinkles or anything like that. Make it as smooth as possible. Fold over the end. So it looks like that. I do have one little wrinkle there, but put it there. And then we take our grip. I’m going to go logo down. You can go logo up or down. This is logo up. I’m going to go logo down. And we are going to go some solvent on here. Plug the end. Put some solvent in it. Give it the old shake. And then pour over the tape. And then one big motion get that thing on there. Then take your towel, wipe off the excess. Boom. Grip one. Done. [Music] All right. Now, to kind of finish this off, we’re going to put the shaft labels on here. KBS has sent some just awesome awesome shaft labels with uh with this build. So, these are pretty cool. Tie-dye, all that. I think they’re going to go really well with these shafts. Further down on the on the shaft than usual, only because I’m going to put another shaft label on there. So, let’s get this thing set here. And I’ll try to get them on as straight as possible because they are I don’t want to mess them up because they are pretty darn cool. Look at that. That is awesome. That is so cool. Oh man. I kind There we go. Got this thing on there. No wrinkles. How sweet is that? Heat. Heat. [Music] Hey, hey, hey. [Music] Heat. [Applause] [Music] Heat. Heat. Heat. [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] [Applause] Heat. Heat. [Music] N. Heat. [Music] Heat. [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] Heat. [Music] Heat. All [Music] right, so that is building the craziest set of Cleveland wedges ever. Uh, I don’t think anybody’s built anything this crazy. Big thank you to Cleveland KBS Lizard Skins uh for supplying these components cuz uh this is just a wild cool build. I actually think they look pretty good. I’m excited to go hit them. I don’t think they’re going to be too distracting or anything. So, this is pretty fun. Uh but I think these things will also perform really well. So, awesome wild set of wedges. And have you ever seen a crazier set of wedges?