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The Grit! #SurfNews Podcast – May 10th, 2024 (Full Episode 267)
📌 Timestamps
00:00:00 – Dental Pain and Root Canal Treatment
00:09:30 – Reviewing “Flowers of the Killer Moon” Movie
00:16:11 – Training for the Olympics
00:19:27 – Chopes and the Fear of Hitting the Reef
00:22:34 – The Dark Practice of Professional Performance Surfing
00:26:09 – Pursuit of Eternal Youth
00:29:37 – Laird Hamilton in the Wild
00:32:51 – A Lesson in Lineup Etiquette
00:39:18 – Carrying your board with wax facing in
00:42:38 – Surfing Rule Breakers and Intermediates
00:45:58 – Surfboard Etiquette and Mistakes
00:49:17 – Trash Dumping in the Ocean
00:52:49 – The privilege and rotten behavior of spoiled kids
00:57:08 – The Dignified Wink
01:02:39 – The Drake and Kendrick Lamar Rap Beef
01:06:04 – Road Trips and Mother’s Day Gifting
01:15:53 – Shout out to the Mothers
🌟 🌟 About This Surf Podcast Episode: David Lee Scales powers through a root canal procedure to record this episode of The GRIT alongside co-host Chas Smith.
The show dives into surfing with a focus on training for the Olympics, the fearsome wave at Chopes, and the ethics surrounding professional surfers who may prioritize competition wins over genuine passion. David and Chas also explore the concept of aging gracefully and the societal pressure to stay young.
Discover discussions on proper surfboard etiquette, including the ongoing debate about carrying a board with the wax facing in or out. Another segment tackles unruly behavior in the lineup, emphasizing respect for fellow surfers. David criticizes the environmental issue of people dumping trash in the ocean and expresses his disapproval of online shaming tactics.
The episode concludes, with David discussing his plans for a solo road trip and offering creative ideas for Mother’s Day gifts.
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ABOUT – THE GRIT! SURF NEWS PODCAST:
THE GRIT! SURF PODCAST AND SURF NEWS: The Grit! is a twice monthly Surf News Podcast show hosted by David Lee Scales and featuring guest Chas Smith discussing the most scintillating headlines from BeachGrit, Latest Surf Gossip, WSL News, and engaging discussions in the “Tools to Live By” and “Barrel or Nah?” segments.
🎬📸 CREDITS:: 🖋️✨
Host, Producer, Video Production: David Scales https://www.instagram.com/david_lee_scales/
Host, Producer: Chas Smith https://www.instagram.com/surfjournalist/
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🌊🎙️ Surf News Podcast Recap: David Lee Scales, co-host of The GRIT podcast, puts on a brave face after a root canal to deliver an episode overflowing with surf talk. Listeners get the lowdown on Olympic training, the etiquette of carrying a surfboard (wax in or out?), and the ethics of competitive surfing. The episode tackles serious issues like ocean pollution and online shaming, before lightening the mood with David’s solo road trip plans and some surprising Mother’s Day gift ideas.
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21 Comments
David, watch the documentary “The Root Cause”
I have done the wax on the inside, but i wanted to big d××k the crew on the beach with a single fin ,I was having so much fun surfing , a small day and they were struggling on there high performance surfboard. I don't care about trying to stay relevant. Just having fun, keep work
Aren’t all foil boards “stand up foils”? Or do you mean Larid had a paddle like a SUP?
DLS looking like Lance Burkhart from the Halloween party at the end of the podcast with the shadows on his face 😂
arent we talking about a dental dam? That old school lezbo accoutrements
Killers of the Flower was a disaster. He let his two stars engage in a bulldog face competition, for how many hours? He got great performances from all the peripheral actors. I love Scorsese, I wish he would do a film without his usual suspects who are bloated and exhausted.
Toledo needs the be coached by Ross Clark Jones. Can't see it.
Mr Smith come thru Durango Colorado, I'll buy you a drink and we can BS adout surfing and life
Laying your board on the sand with wax up to the sun
Cut the sugars. Go Keto, animal based, and fresh(if fruit, avoid dried).
I imagine it is impossible to resist but I feel like you are punching down with Toledo. If I was a pro surfer, having to exist in such a messed up ecosystem, I would feel a lot of license to do whatever I wanted. Of course it's lame to say stomach cramps or whatever and I'm not trying to defend the guy. He just seems like a guy thinking he should be a celebrity without really having his act together. What do the clothes and tattoos represent, exactly? Not everyone is worthy of lots of meticulous consideration (K. Slater).
Why does Kelly need to make all his side hustles public. It really makes the brand suffer. If he developed something with some real success underneath it and then said, "yea, it's something I've been working on for the last 3 years in the background, he would come across so much better." Kelly Slater heat and eat meals? Slater sunscreen and skincare? Slater surf sanctuary timeshares? The man has proven he can move forward on an idea. The saddest thing about slater is his need to be seen and thought about by the public.
Winking depends a lot on how the winker behaves afterward and the content of your face, the thoughts in your head. It can say a lot of things. I think Chas has a great take on it.
Re: Drake, and so so many more. The word I can't write has moved from indicating pre-adolescents to meaning minors.
Kelly is dignified. Kelly has plenty of dignity.
If you live in an extremely windy area you will put the board with the wax toward the torso. If you don’t, the nose of the board gets caught like a sail. With the nose facing in the wind pushes the board into you. With the nose out, it functions like a sail pulls you around.
Carrying with wax in and fins out looks wrong but its an easier and more secure way to do it for older (weaker) surfers or surfers with shorter arms carrying wide or heavy surfboards. I always classed it as Kooky until I got a 12' x 24" Sugar Glider and to my surprise it was the only way I could do it comfortably.
You guys forgot about Sir Patrick Stewart. 83 years old and more intelligent than Kelly, Joe and Shane combined. ❤ Keep up the work.
Hahaha. I totally feel you about setting a high bar. I always get awesome gifts for the Mrs, as and when the opportunity presents. Which means I have nowhere to go when it comes to the special occasions. I really don’t like organized gifting – I like the off the cuff “I saw this thing and thought of you” kinda gifts. 🤷🏻♂️
In Christchurch New Zealand, you see so many kooks wearing helmets at super mellow sandy beachies and they are “riding” thrusters. Often color coded with their wetsuits….the sights of nz surf scene never cease to amaze! Shorties with boots, gloves and hood! 😂
Leash on the front foot!
List is endless!
On the wax thing, it’s definitely wind dependent, if you’re carrying the board wax in and being blown over, I reckon you’re more kook than Curran. So long as you’re ripping who cares what way round your board is??
If you ever had to ride with your board under your arm as a grommet you would always ride with the nose pointing in as it is more aerodynamic. We had to ride across a narrow footbridge with large concrete pipes each side. If it was windy the nose of your board would spear into to pipe and you would do damage to your board and yourself. I had a steep hill from my house and if the wind grabbed your board riding down that it could be ripped straight out of your arm. Even when bike board racks showed up this applied. I actually think the opposite when I see someone carrying a board wax out. They either started late and never rode to the surf, or they are grommets who get driven everywhere and never had to face these perilous problems.
I seem to remember that in the '80s, the cool way to carry your board was fins first and wax inward. Maybe this only applied to surfers walking the blacktop path into Trestles.
You guys crack me up. You dunk on Kelly, Shane and Rogan for not being "dignified" then give Laird a free pass for hogging the line-up with only one other dude! Laird should have given that guy half the waves right out of the gate. That was a total dick move.
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