For all Wide Boyz products, visit our online shop
https://www.wideboyz.com
Check out @CatalystClimbing
Follow us:
📸Instagram: @wide_boyz https://www.instagram.com/wide_boyz/
👥Facebook: @wideboyzltd https://www.facebook.com/wideboyzltd/
🐦Twitter: @wide_boyz https://twitter.com/wide_boyz
Contact us:
info@wideboyz.com
Right folks we are back in the cellar last guest we had down here was Adam Andre I think later on it will get really painful today we have got Lou Parkinson he’s from Catalyst climbing we’re going to see if Louie can beat some of Adam’s goes on the crack well
Luckily I’ve been doing a lot of practice I’m actually pretty good at crack climbing right now I might be able to teach you a thing or two this is not true I’ve done zero crack climbing Louie used to compete internationally he’s bouldered multiple 8bs but his crack climbing experience has been 30 minutes
That’s like total over several years that that in at the end so this morning Louie was taking me through some Dynamic climbing my anti style and now it’s time to put Louie through his Paces on the Cracks there’s also one challenge down here on the thin hands that neither Adam
Stephano will Boosey Magnus n none of them no guest has managed to do so I think it is your day really gu he’s so optimistic okay well I think it’s unlikely the guy with no experience is going to do it but I I’ll try my best I’ll try my best interestingly I think
The first time I ever met Louie was at a Biff competition and there was a campusing hand crack Louie came over and asked me for some jamming technique and then the second time we met was obviously on that lockdown call yeah and that was also jamming and now third time
We’re jamming again those snapshots of crack climing that Pete see me do is the entirety of my crack climbing that over 10 years over 10 years 30 minutes over 10 years carry the one not very much no it’s not it’s not a lot is it it’s about 3 minutes practice a
Year I’ll do my best to be as good a student and try as hard as Pete did for the dynamic stuff we’re doing earlier so the first thing we’re going to start on always start with all our guesss is the hand crack I mean we call it the warm-up but it’s not necessarily
A warm-up but I reckon we should just go over exactly the hand technique exactly the foot technique and then some movement skills on it perfect little yeah so make your L shape like this so you don’t want to move your thumb too far into the center cuz that expands
This bit sliding our hand into the crack and then we’re going thumb first into the center and pushing it down yeah across here and then fingers across pushing against the side of the back yeah yeah got you oh yeah yeah nice I am using the fingers quite a lot but but
The thumbs are doing most of it put our foot in like that and then we just want to twist twist that KN yeah so the knees in line here okay man the feet feel so secure they feel good yeah like really secure that’s really good yeah cuz a lot of the time
People say the feet feel terrible and then the it hurts but it feels like it’s not coming out good yeah you’re looking pretty solid on that so I think we try and do a lap okay um you want to show me first yeah You how are you feeling about doing this route uh the doorway Croc looks quite hard nice Lou excellent said right hand right at the end of the box Very nice you can you can go back if you want oh no that’s okay yeah no no no that’s fine for now I felt like it went quite well um I think most exciting bit for me was that just as I got to the end felt like I started
Slipping and panicked a little bit and then uh Pete’s wise words of wisdom snap back in my head of it’s all just the thumbs just the thumbs cuz as I panicked I started just trying to like push or grab and there’s nothing there but then like locked in the thumbs or just pulled
Those down it suddenly felt really secure again okay cool I love that that was really good yeah really good oh yeah maybe I will be zra cuz so I’m actually very psyched with that I think the hand crack warm-up always gives a good indication of how guests are going to do
In the cellar Lou did a really good job of that showed him how to hand Jam how to foot jam and then it was just first go we’re going to move on to the thin hand crack now interestingly Adam Andre and Stephan know gazoli they both did better on the thin
Hands with feet outside the crack we have never had a guest managed to do a full single lap of the thin hands with hands and feet inside the crack we’ve had many many very strong climbers down here like will Boosey Stephano Adam Magnus bunch of nobody it’s a lot of
It’s a lot of big names and that that one thing is still up for grabs for a guest to make the first Ascent so enter Lou enter Lou Parkinson the lap that nobody’s done and what we always start people off on on the hand the thin hands crack is
Starting in the hands yeah climbing down so feet first feet first oh but they’re doing feet on these no no no no feet in the crack okay okay and then up the other side nobody’s managed to do one oh one one that Stephano and Adam yeah
Were both very good with feet outside the crack okay sounds harder yeah it’s it’s much harder it’s much harder I think could have been like a shoe issue I’m not sure okay but you brought the right shoes so all right yeah Adam was burning shoes down here what no he was
Softening them up wasn’t he my toes are too bunched so I want to heat the shoes up to make them feel bigger it’s the wizard did you bring a blow torch I didn’t no if I don’t any of these challenges it’s cuz I didn’t bring my
Blow torch that’s why I usually do and because you’ve got quite thin hands yeah you when you put your hand in before you do any action with the thumb or fingers shape yeah but really give it like okay okay really give it a proper wiggle okay yeah how my bones yeah
Exactly yes a this with the feet it’s just that looks hard it’s just a little bit awkward to get the feet in properly when come around the corner so that’s hey it look like no zero so this next section is actually an unconfirmed O because Adam Adam didn’t
Do it he has to come back for another session is o1 Andre couldn’t do it is that the grading system no o o z is Andre flashes it 01 is he does it in one session O2 two sessions3 three sessions this is unconfirmed 02 unconfirmed O2 I guess yeah which is
Huge hard very hard I mean he did the hardest Trad route in the world in three sessions he quite good he’s o zeroed 9A plus hasn’t he yeah he has so this is at least 9B sport this is always the Crux for everybody I think cuz even when
People kind of understand the concept of the thin hands uh it’s just the feet around here are a little bit tricky with this angle change going from straight in and then you have to do this extra twist to get them in there which feels slightly unnatural oh no that feels
Terrible it’s not gone brilliantly no flash it’s quite hard to get the toes in the toe that’s what I was saying the yeah feet of the crooks oh man okay let’s try that again I’m going ultimis go for the campus Fe are going in man okay let’s
Just uh I love that how earlier I was going to the heel Hooks and then now optimistically you’re going for the campus it’s not going to be good Barefoot is it be yeah bare foot could be good yeah let’s give it a try Adam never suggested that there you
Go got to think outside the box going to go for charel bear on this and try it baref cuz it felt it felt like the the shoes keeping my toes in that position meant I just couldn’t get them in at all so I’m going to see if it’s any better like
This oh hello hello ow yeah I think that could work chalk these little bad boys up how painful was it oh very not as painful as well as wearing the shoes though come on l come on mate you got It come on yeah absolutely smashing it keep going that’s it mate come on got it come on yes nice oh my God so painful it works oh man really oh was that it that was it oh god well done that was really happy with that man
Actually felt like I could have I wasn’t like too pumped or tired but was yeah you’re right it’s like a pain tolerance challenge oh I was running out of pain tolerance oh just wait for my feet to go back into their normal shape we’ll try the next
One psyched that psyched with that yeah that was great Al that is challenge one done managed to do feet and hands in the thin hand crack the first guest who has actually ever managed to do one full single lap so Lou takes a victory on
That one and then we are now going to head on to the pleasure Loop Challenge number two everybody loves the pleasure loop it’s pleasurable I think this one could be a little bit more tricky because it’s wider hands and there’s also a bit of CED hands and a bit of
Flexing on the volume my little Trump hands are up to the job they got noral siiz hands so Adam flashed the pleasure Loop okay so it’s got to be a flash I’m on it I’m ready O Negative is that what it’s called o z o z
Sorry get with the times no so if I can somehow do better than flashing it then that will be the O Negative yeah cool so the pleasure Loop starts in here comes into the original wide boys volume into the Prototype wide boys volume long move tricky long move that’s a long way yeah
Out to this one and then we get to the expand so this one actually it flexes oh no so it’s really important you just screw that in I’m sure it’ be much more secure and then it wouldn’t do that anymore oh man you can’t go that far
Into it either no so the pleasure Loop finishes with two hands in here I think this is going to be the Crux yeah I think so yeah yeah like you want it put fish J yeah what if I can like expand it with the foot and then get a fist in I mean
That would be pretty cool okay well see see what happens when we get there okay then you’re into this uh then that’s it match match in here yeah just mat the end that’s the end so it’s just from there yep doesn’t sound that hard you show me first yeah I’ll show you yeah
I’m going to walk around and bang my head on something else how’s it look hard harder than the stuff we’ve done so far I’ll watch Pete make it look really easy and then I’ll try Myself Think Very ni this well once again it looks fine when Pete does it with this cuz it’s a crack going across yeah and we’re going that way yeah the same twist thing isn’t going to work right the same twist thing isn’t going to work so essentially you’re doing more like a Levering action oh
It’s like pushing the heel down and lifting the toes up yeah exactly so you’re just pushing you’re you’re literally just doing that and then that pushes this part and this part into the crack I’m going to go for blue t-shirts end cuz I think that seems to be what’s
Making so strong oh crap all no T-shirt you can send Andre a message after this yeah no I’m trash Oh no I forgot it’s thin I wasn’t going to be able to get my feet in and then I was like oh maybe I can just do all four limbs in here and that didn’t work and
Then I fell off video over sorry see you later yes feet on feet on Fe go on nice oh no oh why is this one so bad okay well the campus kind of worked yeah nice come on very good come on yep like that ow oh ow you okay yeah disappointed in
Myself nice I’m facing the wrong way though no that’s that’s good you can keep yeah keep moving a little bit Yeah and is this side wall in uh you tend to kind of brush it a little bit it’s not in okay okay I thought that’ be too nice you can
Just like if you’re in that position that’s a lot easier you know that’s sort of smart beater that won with the Olympics yeah I say any black tape then then you can probably put your foot on the other wall do right look see good thing I’m here all right let’s let’s try again
From the start nope oh ow oh God me and Lou haven’t climbed together at all ever um but you seem like one of those people who’s just like no I want to give it another go like I never to give it another go and I want to go back
To the stupid St yeah yeah just like cuz I’m like that as well and just like quick firing one to give it a go and then never actually resting properly it’s a blessing an a curse right cuz you get good at being determined and persistent you’re very bad at actually
Resting and doing smart things yeah no okay fine it is time for a rest no oh it was actually going kind of well okay save yourself yeah I’m pretty sure I could definitely do this in like maybe one or two more tries but I’m going to
I’m going to save it for later fun as it is let’s go and do a different fun one okay so we are two challenges down out of the three Louie managed to beat Adam on the thin hands with feet in the crack Adam did an impressive flash of the pleasure Loop Louie
Didn’t so it’s one all and we move on to the last challenge it’s one all last challenge Sentry crack can Louie do more laps than Adam Andra this is going to be interesting it’s a big seller moment you rubbed your hands for a long time cuz it’s a good seller moment folks
So before we go on to the final challenge of Sentry crack I know Louie loves campusing loves using his his arms so we are going to do two challenges little one armor Challenge on the hand jam and then a campus Challenge on the thin hands cuz Louis did really well on
The thin hands and this one hasn’t actually been done before by anybody nobody okay zero okay I’m interested yeah all right what’s the one AR I think you could be good on this one yeah like your optimism all right okay the one AR challenge is just how many one armors
Can you do on a hand jum all right you first then that’s asking that’s asking for it maybe if I start oh yes come on but it’s not uh it’s not from completely straight oh oh that’s fine yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah oh God okay which hand is less
Battered like when it’s slightly they’re pretty fresh I think yeah easy yes good come on no way that would have been the first time I ever did more than one anyway okay that was really good I’ll try on the other arm I didn’t feel like I closed it completely I wanted to get
Shoulder to the crack yeah let me try on the left arm oh this hand’s I don’t think this one’s going to be doing anything let me try on the right arm again good good no no I’m tired from doing all the I did like 10
In a row before you put the camera on that was it yeah yeah okay so the campus challenge is both hands starting below the block Y and then both hands finishing in the hand crack and it’s not been done other than by you a million times no I haven’t done it you haven’t
Done it I haven’t done it no Tom might have done it I can’t remember if Tom’s done it though okay well go on then you first I find it totally desperate um looks pretty hard yeah yeah man come on yeah let’s go come on get it oh he’s in come
On I’ve never done that oh man I’m do that so good nice go why did that just suddenly happen that’s weird that Dynam movement practice this morning it is check out the video that helped all right well following that amazing feat now I’ll have a
Go yes nice one come on and then this way yeah I think I think I always go thumbs up okay thumbs up the crack felt like a mistake to do what whatever I just did oh no that felt like it for a second that look good it look like I was about
To do a full lap a you can just cut my feet out yeah yeah yeah yeah oh my God oh my God you did it oh wow well let’s end it there successful stuff right well should we try the century crack thing now so well for me
You should try Century crack all right let’s go last one I’ll put these back on God damn right so it is Sentry crack it’s either going to be Louie or Adam to take Victory on the last I’m still feeling confident you confident no I’m confident come on all right all right
Let’s go let’s go okay so we are at the centry crack box this replicates Sentry crack in the desert that me and Tom did many many years ago and we’re using stacks on this so it’s too big for our fist it’s too big for our hand so we
Have to use hand and fist together so not like that this is what I yes this is what I always tell to people when they first start stacking never go Palm to the fist cuz there’s nothing to push yeah the reason being you just you claps
It onto the hand and you’re not pushing so Palm to the Rock and then we want to go fist to the back of the hand and we can use many different combinations so it can be like this be like this could be like this or this and then again
Opposites with that and that yeah so actually eight different combos it’s like clapping game so a few key things on the stacks that we always need to remember the first one being we want to remember it as being one unit so the hand and the fist we’re going to
Clench them at the same time what we’re not doing is we’re not putting hand Jam in and then trying to fit the fist in around it that is exactly what I was just doing like Sur there’s like an angle where if I get it right it’ll just
Oh it be easy but oh you actually have to try hard okay Dam that’s a shame you want you want to put the hands in nice and relaxed okay and then create it all together one unit that’s what we want to imagine yes yeah there we go better yeah nice
Good good good okay kind of learning it that’s my method then okay nice how does the feet work the feet so it all gets easier when you put your feet in oh thank Christ it’s being pretty hard just then like yeah I’ve got it two laps I
Guess ah it’s jump up take them out slam them back in a bit further yeah pretty much okay cool but with feet but with feet we’re putting our feet up like this oh the crack okay and then we want to do this yeah inside the crack Charlie chaping it yeah and
Then also I do like a little bit up yeah and then round want to be as far in as you can yeah so you want to be nice and deep like that okay and then you be doing your stack in between the legs okay got it and then to move you
Want to I’m going to move your one time release uh release the left foot you keep it in the crack yeah slide it across y hold hold with the legs y move the hands yeah hold with the hand and leg Yeah and then does that left foot need
To step past those blockers step wow oh oh man so uh yeah roll all the way up and get your feet a little bit higher yeah yeah you’ll get you a different pair of shoes potentially I need a new pair of feet man you have some which don’t have nerves in
Them or bones we’ve done a lot of painful stuff today but that that’s unbearable yeah so the feet in the crack on the center crack box I feel like people always have different opinions with it and when when you do first start out it can feel very unusual because
You’re using it’s really like kind of gets a point on the big toe uh and it can really like kind of like right on the nerve so yeah if you’re not used to it feels a bit funny like even when I come back on this and I’ve done feel
Funny at all it didn’t feel funny is not the word I would have used what’s the word you would have used Lou I can’t say it on camera yes yes yes get that stacking come on yes yes all right is that is that more than 100ed no Come on come on come on yes good good good good good come on get it in come on no okay I’m going to leave it Andra brilliant all right well it was pretty close they missed the bit where I did three and a half laps didn’t have
The camera on oh thank you such a good teacher Pete I tried my best I’m sorry no that was that was awesome um and I’m I’m really impressed with with like this one and the thin hands as well especially like that thin hands is I was
Happy with that one that was a good moment it’s not it’s not easy it’s not easy my hands you need to go bathe your hands B your hands all right awesome that was lovely so Andre won two two1 just just TI you at the post you had him
On the thin hands know and then he had you on the pleasurable Loop and the Sentry crack y but it was a good fight tried really hard I hope tried very very hard I think one of the most enthusiastic hardworking people we’ve had down the sou I actually really want
To give this another go now but I’m going to not let’s let’s let’s not do this I’ll save it for next time I think you’re going to wake up tomorrow with hands and feet they’re going to be double the size that they are today suly sore yeah Lou thanks for coming on the
Channel it was a pleasure man it’s been great it’s also been a great day we did some filming with Louie earlier in the day where he taught me some Dynamic climbing took me out my comfort zone so if you want to check that out go and check out Catalyst climbing if you want
To watch any more seller video action then check out this video right here
31 Comments
Seems to be quite shoe dependent, and also size
I’m gonna walk around and bang my head on something else 😂 Louis is the best.
10:25 absolutely Brilliant. well done. Good on ya bro.
This guy was hilarious, please have him back.
That makes the second half grading an O-1, for now. If Adam comes back and fails again, it becomes O-2, and so on, until Adam completes it and sets the grading for a positive value.
Me halfway through a large pizza : Cmon- Work ‘arder!
Great video! So much fun and so impressive to see how hard Louis is willing to try.
Louis is annoying af
“How painful was it?”
“Oh! Very”
🗽 Louis has the so called british toughness (high pain tolerance), I know from soccer players. 😅
.
12:10 "So if I somehow can do better than flashing it, that will be the 0 negative?"
"Yeah 😐"
"Cool"
🤣🤣
Looks like you need to invent a „barefoot sock“ type of „shoe“ just a thin layer that however is not slipping at all but reduces a bit of the barefoot pain. If it sells, I‘d like to be invited to the cellar 🙂 (do you have v3 cracks as well 🙁 ?
I just realised what i like best about these vids is that bc theyre filmed in a cellar, the acoustics make it feel really kinda intimate, and its more engaging to me that way
Louis just always seems super psyched and super positive.
What a top level combo. Love these two, would be so great to see more collabs but when would they get the time i guess
I don't want to think about where these mattresses came from
When can I try 😅
Just don't do slab laybacks barefoot and fall
If you ever come to Black Mtn in Southern California; there is a thin roof crack you can campus. Then it turns vertical
Would be cool to see Alex Megos in the cellar, too
"Are you okay?"
"Yeah… 🙁 ….. disappointed in myself… :c"
Loui, the best mate for climb,you can sense great chemistry between him and Pete
that pain tolerance to possibly beat AO is limitless right? 😀 😀 😀
This cellar looks so much nicer than it did years ago. Seems to me it used to be a random cellar with some cracks added, and now it’s been really cleared up, renovated and polished.
louis has a high tolerance pain, british climber heritage
pure gold
Just saw Ondra's full endorsement of O-grades! Best news 😂
Nothing funnier than pete squeaking out a "No" through his laughter
Tom's wife is like "who's coming to the cellar? Actually, I don't care, it's fine"
First time I've heard Louie curse. Great job Pete!
Pete what shoes are you wearing? 🙂