Scott’s Epic Ride, Brazilian Storm Mystery
https://surfsplendorpodcast.com
Spit! February 22, 2024 | Episode 345
🎙️ 🌊 Spit! Surf Podcast Summary:
Dive into the latest surf vibes with Spit! In this thrilling episode, Scott shares the details of his epic Internet-breaking barrel ride, setting the stage for a wave of excitement that sweeps through the show.
📌 Timestamps
00:00:00 – Scott’s Epic Barrel
00:04:38 – Surfing Etiquette in Southern California
00:09:13 – Recovering on the Wave
00:18:19 – Molly’s Dominance and the Changing of the Guard in Women’s Surfing
00:22:52 – Jordy’s Best Season Ever
00:27:10 – Thrilling Waves at Sunset Beach
00:32:04 – Jack Robinson’s Surfing Style at Sunset Beach
00:41:06 – Jon Pyzel’s Surfboard Identification Skill
00:45:37 – The Well-rounded Episode with Surfer Interviews
00:50:15 – A Missed Interview Opportunity
00:59:19 – Orcas and Intelligence
01:04:06 – Tony Roberts’ Surf History Documentary
01:08:51 – Preparing for the Atlantic Hurricane Season
📺 About This Surf Podcast:
Join the Surf Splendor crew as they explore the intriguing dynamics of the 2024 surf season, raising the question of whether the Women’s CT will outshine its male counterpart.
The conversation navigates the mysterious disappearance of the Brazilian Storm, leaving listeners with a sense of wonder about the shifts in the competitive surfing landscape. Additionally, the hosts express their admiration for the newest mini-surf history documentaries, providing a glimpse into the rich tapestry of surfing’s past.
But that’s not all – the episode culminates in a collective bow to the majestic waves of Sunset. Tune in for engaging surfing stories, California surf news, and lively discussions that make Spit! a must-listen surfing podcast. Don’t miss out on the latest surf narratives and insights from the crew at Surf Splendor. 🌊🎙️
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🤙Credits:
Host, Producer: David Scales @David_Lee_Scales
Host, Producer: Scott Bass @BoardroomShow
🔍 Spit Surf Show Recap:
“In today’s show Scott recounts his Internet-breaking barrel ride before the boys postulate that 2024 is the season where the Women’s CT eclipses the Men’s, ponder what happened to the Brazilian Storm, fawn over the latest, greatest mini-surf history documentaries, and bow down to Sunset’s majesty. Enjoy!”
#SurfingPodcast #CaliforniaSurfNews #SurfingConversations #surfpodcast #wslnews
As we see some movement at the takeoff Zone it’s Kelly sler grabbing yeah guy yeah guy David yeah freaking guy do you know what I’m talking about David when I say yeah guy yeah I know when you get spit out of a barrel like that and you
Say yeah guy then you break the internet with your Instagram clip I wasn’t really going there what I was gonna suggest to you if I can real quick is let the listeners know that I have teamed up with Wayne rich and surftech we’re giving away a Wayne rich
Longboard the wildcard 3 so all you got to do is go to surf.com and right there on the page it’ll say enter to win a wayin rich longboard you click on it fill out the stuff so I’m giving away we are giving away a wayin rich a surftech now this
Board the Wild Card 3 it has the nft construction which is an EPS foam paired with flax glass so it’s light it’s not too light it’s actually like the perfect amount of low vibration dampening it’s good for a log so uh to win a Wayne rich longboard simply go to surf.com and
Enter to Wi yeah guy yeah guy um so your Instagram clip broke the internet dude no did people are freaking loving it um everybody wants to know there’s so much that F in the comments section there uh between your uh you know know serving at a top
Level at your we’re not going to say later age but let’s say past your Prime maybe oh it’s the ag1 is what he’s showing me ag1 Secret Sauce the drink a1.com surf is what he’s showing me um but the it is definitely the secret sauce but then also all the people
Burning you which is just commonplace nowadays and then people want to know what you’re writing what’s your board fin combo so let’s just start with the barrel itself there’s multiple clips or mult yeah multiple waves in that little Instagram clip but it starts out with you getting a proper barrel for Southern
California is that the best Barrel you’ve gotten in sometime yeah actually it is it probably is the best barrel I’ve gotten in a long time probably since my trip to Indo last July it’s epic that somebody caught it on video I know um that nice gentleman
Harry he he does a lot he’s he captures a lot of the locals surfing in this region um he’s off down at Seaside he get he’s really good at getting all the upand cominging hot young guys at Seaside and there’s a lot of older blos at Seaside that he shoots too like Rob
Machado and Jason shook I see and Adam Trav there’s a lot of guys wallt panowski a lot of guys my age that he shoots photos of he shoots that’s what’s cool about the local photographer right he like shoots everybody he doesn’t just focus on the super hot young kid so yeah
Hats off to Harry Martin for shooting the Great footage so it was an epic wave first of all when you’re paddling in you can see that is maybe the wave I mean I don’t know day what the day looked like other than that but it looks like the
Wave of the day and then we’ve all been in that situation where you feel that level of pressure when the wave of the day is coming to you and I got to say you handled it like an uh experienced seasoned professional casual did exactly what you were supposed to do you weren’t
Over you know excited about it you just did surfed the thing perfectly yeah thank you yeah it was a fun super fun day of Surfing and um it was just a beautiful day you know it was um it was good it was really crowded
Early on and I didn’t go out I was in that I’m not going out there there was like 45 50 dudes on it and I was like God I’m just going to wait and you know how hard that is I know you do when you’ve got like four hours to wait you
Know because I’m like I’m waiting for the low tide I’m just going to wait I I know at a certain point of in the morning people are going to leave like that whole crew is out and um sure enough they left and it it kind of
Turned into it went from you know 50 to 20 people which is manageable and yeah um and then the guy to be fair the guy in the clip that cuts me off that was probably his wave I didn’t know who the guy was and I
Guess you could say that I snaked him oh I see we were both sitting out there but it was his turn for sure but I don’t know who he is I I’d never seen him before and so out there when the wayes are that good I just turn and start
Paddling and I’m expecting maybe the guy will just back out you know exactly yeah and because until I know who you are you know so it was his wave and so um nobody should be kind of heckling him and I did my best to stay out of his way you know
And um is that the one where you Tred to pull up into the tube yeah behind him yeah um and there was another one that another guy that burns you too off shoulder some younger guy yeah just some shoulder Hopper guy and I was whatever you know the bottom line is is that
There’s plenty of room on that wave for two people generally especially with me because I kind of know how to get around people it’s just it’s a soft way it’s not it’s an easy way for two people and and also um I’m of the mindset like hey
You know what if you want to burn me burn me on some karmic level I might deserve it and so it’s all good like I’m sort of old enough now where I kind of don’t I try not to hold grudges about it I try not to I try to be more like hey
You know what no worries it’s all good yeah well so um I don’t that is the norm like that little clip summed up a session any given session in Southern California where maybe you get a good set wve at some point but then you’re also going to get burned a couple of
Times sometimes it’s your fault or sometimes like you said you just were trying to power somebody out of their position and they didn’t they decided not to back down but then there is going to be somebody that shoulder hops you that is the absolute average session in Southern California nowadays postco
Etiquette out the window basically yeah yeah but there was a lot of there was a lot of good um a lot of good etiquette happening too you know um and it’s just yeah it’s an interesting thing right the psychology of lineups in Southern California it’s a fascinating thing it’s more complicated now than
Ever um or in Finn combo what were you writing everybody wants to buy one now yeah well they should because I was riding one of my all-time favorite surfboards which is the Ryan seel saber which you and I have spoken about numerous times on this show so Ryan sa
Shapes me a bunch of boards he’s making me a twins are now and um it’s a 610 twin fin with the C drive the naked Vikings nvs C drive fins which is that sort of a keel fin template but with the sort of the top half of the keilin cut
Out so it forms kind of a SE so it’s the C drive fin it’s all the base of a keel with all the tip of a normal twin finny kind of Mr twin fin so some of the some of the areas cut out of it so those are the C drive fins and
Then that 610 it’s pretty full pretty wide and um it paddles you know like a 76 and it gets me around you know and I’m a big fan of that board it’s easy to ride and it kind of just does what I wanted to do without me having to think too
Much uh it is the perfect combination of doing what you want to do like I almost want to say oh the board did the work except you were doing half the work as well but it did it effortlessly you know like I said the way that you take off on
That wave there’s no major pump there’s no major uh body movement it’s just perfect Glide positioned excellently pulled up right into the midsection of the wave got shacked came out didn’t celebrate too hard the turns are just effortless so it’s the perfect combination of Surfer board and Finn combo so yeah the
Board has an amaz it has an amazing way of having me hold back my claims so I do give credit to the board for that well it has an amazing way of like um there was a restraint in it you know what I mean like it won’t let
You overexpress a turn you know it was just like perfect Glide and positioning on all of it so you know there’s one way in that where um I started go up high and I sort of have this like torn Martin kind of a moment you know and everyone
Goes oh I really like that you know I talked to some guys at the board sourc like oh that was really that was a really cool ride the way you did that or whatever and the fact of the matter is I fully farmed that like you can’t tell
But I was my feet were I was out of position like I thought I was going to go out the back of the way yeah I was like oh my God I I just wasn’t in the right Mojo and somehow the board just set the rail and everything like it
Almost looked as if I was doing that on purpose but I was really at the very close moment of just like shooting the board out of the wave that’s where you have to say at the um editor on the back because it leading into that moment you
Could see that you’re out of sorts and like you are projecting up and you’re going to go out the back of the wave but you do recover in that last moment right under the curl and you you do this pose it is only for a split second but he pauses it and
Snaps the screenshot in that Split Second so it almost makes it look as if everything was set up for that moment and it wasn’t it was a recovery but tot that’s where the board and the fins absolutely help but anyways those C drives we’ve hyped for a couple of years
Now I can’t yeah say enough good things about them especially the twin version of them I think that’s where I’ve had my best experience with the SE drives but naked Viking is nvs you can get them at Surf nv.com um their Instagram is naked Viking surf I believe but yeah you see
Them everywhere nowadays and they do they do collaboration projects with a lot of different Shapers so nvs yeah and those C drives you know they’re they’re oddl looking fins so I think most Surfers being conservative in nature tend to look at them go H those look a little maybe gimmicky or whatever
But I promise you I wouldn’t ride them if they didn’t work in rible and they do and I as you know David I’ve had those in that particular board for about four seasons now so it’s that’s my go to setup yeah basically like you said the
Base is real wide so you get drive and then the The Rake beyond that is a real kind of um a c-shaped rake and so you get the maneuverability of the water flowing through that sea but the tip being strong because they’re made out of the G10 laminate so the the tip remains
Real strong even though there’s little material up there and uh so drive and maneuverability it’s ideal makes perfect sense actually yeah and check out sacle go to S Ryan sac’s Instagram or check out his website that board is a pu construction and um it’s my third or no
My second one of those boards the Sabers and you can get those at real water sports I believe too yeah that’s right I think you can I’ve seen it hanging on the wall there um well hey dude we had a massive day of professional surfing
Yesterday we did oh my the hurly pro at sunet beach absolutely buttery five to eight foot surf just Flawless not a not a drop out of place so to speak to use the cliche and and what a fun day of surf I got to say I was when I was
Watching it yesterday I was going you know tip of the cap to the WSL frankly or typically cap to Mother Nature because both events have been fun to watch I’ve been fully engaged I’m very engaged in the season now and in some respects because Felipe is not in the
The mix it’s it’s actually made it even better believe it or not to remove the world champion has made it better and that’s an interesting thought experiment in and of itself well I agree with you in that I feel like this is the best opening to a
WSL season that I remember in recent history and we always you always say the waves are the stars that is one 100% true none of this would be possible without these two venues firing yet beyond that the women are the stars the women have this is the year that the
Women have become the more interesting story lines throughout the event than the men and it’s not just one it’s a it’s multiples and I think that’s what makes it interesting going into this season I would not have necessarily told you to watch out for Betty lose Sakura Johnson
You know what I mean Molly picklum of course you and I discussed last show she deserved our attention we had not given it to her prior but she’s come out and been in two finals um she won this event we didn’t state that yet and so and then
You got Caitlyn simmers Caitlyn simmers winning the first event and her kind of bravado and brute you know power surfing strength that she’s delivering and her personality that she’s delivering all of this stuff is really um going head-to-head like it’s almost like they’re all coming to their Peak
Performance at the same time and so they’re being put into really good conditions and they’re stepping up and delivering in those conditions and that’s it’s an incredible moment yeah you’re absolutely right and one of the things that I’ve been thinking about is
You know you and I and a lot of a lot of people are like you know what the finals it lowers okay we did it it was okay but let’s move the finals at lowers to waves of consequence let’s move the final day to really incredible Surf and I think
More than more so perhaps uh than for the men for the women we’re letting the women down the share if we don’t put these women they’ve proved their themselves I mean we saw them at day of swell Rising Pipeline and Incredibly good Sunset Beach and I feel like it’s almost more
Of a disservice to the woman to put put them out in 3 to 5 foot lowers than it is to the men I want to see the women and I know the women Caitlyn simmers Molly picklum these girls are charging yeah Lua C Johnson is charging these girls Tyler Wright’s charging she’s
Surfing better in bigger ways than I’ve ever seen her surf they deserve we as fans deserve to see them frankly I’d like to see them back at pipeline for the finals no question about it um speaking of charging Molly picklum her 9.67 I think it was yesterday on a single turn at
Sunset so she takes off on a close out I don’t know why by the way um there’s lots of Great Waves out there so You’ think you’d just be looking nobody’s looking for close out at Sunset well here’s the thing as you know at Sunset when it’s that
Offshore you don’t really know what’s happening down the line you see a big wall but yeah that thing could easily hold up and throw a huge heaving tube you know and where there’s so much water water and like it’s you’re kind of just don’t know and you see a beautiful blue
Wall and you’re like I’m going you know like I don’t think she went oh close out I’m going to go no well if you do see the close out coming at you once you’re up and riding you kick out or you straighten out actually at
Sunset she went up into the lip went for the turn and then you see it all kind of dropping out underneath her anybody would have not even approached that turn and then anybody would have ejected off of that turn she went for it and somehow adjusted coming
Down the face and recovered and got a single I mean it could have been a 10 I think you know a couple of judges might have given it a 10 actually but it was like a high nine for a single turn at sunset on a closeout and in the post
Heat interview Strider in the water even said to her he’s like none of my friends would have even attempted a turn on that wave so that when we say charging it’s not just charging into big barrels at pipeline it’s going for the endsection at Sunset you know this is rarified only
Andy Irons had done this in a previous event it’s insane yeah I totally agree and I think maybe tip of the cap to her team too because uh the judges had let it be known that you can get a onewave excellent score a one turn excuse me a
One turn excellent score and they knew that going in and and she’s like look one big Jack Robinson hack for lack of a better phrase I think we can we can give Jack the you know we can make that turn called the Jack whatever but Jack the Jackhammer and Molly pin performed the
Jackhammer and frankly the what say it again the pickaxe Molly picklum pickaxe oh okay nice you know she went into that turn basically going I’m probably not making this like I think she just went I’m I’m putting it like she went for it but knowing like I you know this is this
Is going to be a tough one you know like the odds are I’m going to fall here and um she just kind of went back on her outside Rail and it looked like oh and then she made you know like it was a free it was crazy everyone saw it it was
Mental and hats off to Molly and the pickaxe maneuver um so no joke Molly pum we can’t overstate kind of the moment that she having in her career right now yeah the the 10-point ride at Pipeline and now this result here at Sunset with the performance that she delivered at Sunset
Against a bunch of other women kind of hitting their Peak it is I mean it’s Molly’s year I mean it was Caitlyn’s year coming out of that first event but Molly making it into this final and winning the event it really is kind of she is the one to beat as we’re going
Through this season yeah it’ll be interesting to see right like you said we’re as fired up or more fired up for watching the women’s cuz you really sense that there’s um legit rivalries there too like you sense that they’re all frothing and chomping at the bit like bety lucier
Johnson’s you know she’s pissed like she wants to charge it you know and she’s TR looks so good man I hate that she’s even not winning these events because I know I she incredible this should be her segment right now but because there’s three women that are just absolutely
Tearing it yeah uh it’s yeah it’s so it’s fascinating it’s kind of like Mr and Shane heran back in my day um so anyway it’s good stuff the other thing that fits right with this conversation is The Changing of the Guard like obviously Stephanie Gilmore and Carissa
Moore opted to sit out for the season but this might have been happening even if they were on tour and Tyler Wright is getting trounced by these girls even last year’s World Champ I mean Caroline’s in the conversation still she’s making Heats but this is a whole new guard and they look un
Unbeatable I know isn’t it strange that like tati West and Carolyn Marx seem like like old veterans you know but they’re not really but this new guards just like move over you know like we’re here and we’re not moving you know we’re like deal with it yeah exactly they’re
Totally stealing the spotlight um the other real story that’s kind of emerging here we will discuss kind of individual rides as we go through but the other story that’s emerged after two events is Brazilian storm has completely dissipated um the Brazilian storm had been dominant for 10 years the the top ranking Brazilian
Right now is in 13th position there’s no Brazilians in the top 12 and that is ealo Gab uh Yago in 17th migy poops is in 17th uh um and then below the midyear cut currently is Gabriel Medina and Samuel poopo so that’s shocking that is that’s that doesn’t
Seem right they all those Surfers you mentioned usually have strong performances in Hawaii they’re they’re worthy of Great Performances in Hawaii they’ve had them in the past and you know it’s funny when we listened to Connor o lry yesterday on the podcast on the broadcast he was kind of talking about
Hey I had a bad season last year in Hawaii I think I had a 17th and a last or whatever and and he came back and did okay the back half the season so there’s plenty of time for them to come back and have their moment and I’m sure that they
Will um you know I’m more about let’s just hope there’s good waves I mean you know it’s kind of like no kidding Scott but I just hope there’s not marginal conditions for these events coming up well Gabriel Medina is the storyline up in that Brazil conversation for me him
Having two 17ths is shocking and he notoriously kind of um wins his titles in the back half of the season but two 17s out of the first two events is got to be rattling even for him those are throwaways you know yeah I’m pretty sure those are throws I heard him talking the
Mindset of the competitor these days is like everything except a ninth and Beyond as a throwa if you’re going for the world title you I’m not talking about making the I’m talking about the world title so interestingly every year for the last 10 years when you and I are
Discussing the upcoming season right before it starts we’ve always had a conversation about Jordy Smith and it used 10 years ago was like is this year jordy’s year to win a title and within the last three years the conversation transitioned to is this the year he
Quits is this the year that he doesn’t make the cut you know you this is the first year we did not discuss Jordy and now he’s having his best season ever I didn’t even know he was on tour I thought he had retired watching him in
The pipe event I was like Wow Jordy really this is like his best start to a season good for him and then watching him at Sunset I’m realizing oh my gosh this is a return to form for Jordy obviously uh quality waves benefit Jordy greatly and the style of Surfing that he
Does especially at Sunset is really reserved only for big blos um but it’s amazing to see him you know level up to the current performances that are going down and also like delivering when he needs to deliver because that’s been his Crux in the past
Is he’ll get into he’ll have a couple of good Heats and then he ends up in the quarters against somebody who he could easily Smash and he doesn’t put two waves together so it’s incredible I think to see Jordan and he’s in fourth position yeah you know he said something
In a post heat interview after he beat John Florence in the semifinals or was that the quarters anyway when he beat John John and he basically the the the young lady I forget her name she’s really good um Al AJ McCord AJ McCord she does a great job she asked him
Something and and he basically started answering and he and then he kind of stopped himself and he’s like look it’s not that serious like let’s just have a little bit of fun like I I you know and that’s the mentality that Jordy needs to have if he can maintain that I’m just
Here to have I’ve been on tour for so long I’m just enjoying it I think that’s what he said he goes look why not enjoy it yeah and and I think when he’s kind of has that Letting Go moment you know that Kelly Slater just let go of all the
Stuff and go out there and have a good time surfing obviously that’s when he does his best if he can maintain that mentality throughout the year great but if he’s in third place going into the lowers you know the final day and he you know with all that pressure Mountain can
He still be you know what I’m just going to have fun with it whatever happens happens if that’s the mentality he keep keeps he’s in a great place I think he has a lot to offer um his style of Surfing is still unique and different than everybody else’s and it’s wonderful to see
Him uh like if you imagine him in a top five scenario like we had last year you’re like oh wow Ethan eing really brings something unique that nobody else has this really polished rail game you know and then Felipe has something that’s really unique in this scenario I
Think Jordy has that as well where I want to see him kind of go toet totoe with Ethan eing to see who can deliver the more exciting performance I want to see him go toe-to-toe with Gabriel Medina he has all of those he can hit a
Home run in every category of Surfing no matter what the waves are doing he’s actually won at lowers in the past he’s won in Rio in the past he’s a threat in big waves you know so I really hope that he maintains this kind of level of performance throughout the season
Because I would love to see him in lowers and I believe he could beat almost anybody in lowers yeah I agree too you know I think about the two big lefts on tour the at Cloud break and I guess chopu is not on tour this year
Because of the Olympics right so I think yeah it’s on tour oh it is it is it okay I thought maybe they took it off because of the Olympics okay but so chopu and cloudbreak that’s kind of where we like I mean not that he can’t have great
Performances and he has had great performances but it’s not what we think of when we think of we think of oh he’s going to rip J B he’s going to rip Margaret River he’s going to rip Sunset Beach and part of it is you know another thing about Jordy if I may is
That I was speaking with Barton Lynch a couple of months ago or whatever on a podcast and we were he was telling hey man the two hit excellent score eight is way better than the seven hit soft little rampy thing at Bells or whatever like and so I think that judging is kind
Of and and Jack Robinson kind of helps to solidify that kind of mentality or that theme that the judges have that if you just give me one or two massive hacks I’ll ad Jordy or Jack that’s just as good as six other little turns that somebody
Else might do you know Canoa you know so yeah I’m gonna make your point but use the exact opposite Surfer uh there was a heat with Canoa and Jordy and it might have been the opening exchange and Jordy got a long soft wave yeah and he did a
Couple of you know it was his opening ride I believe and he did a bunch of shoulder turns out on the shoulder and got like a five-point ride Keno is on the next wave and it was a running kind of fast almost like a close out so he’s
Like pumping pumping pumping then he does one turn and got a bigger score for doing the single turn so to make your point and Barton’s the difference on those two waves was one was a more thrilling wave even though Canoa only did one turn on it you could see all of
The energy on that wave and you could see Canoa having to go really fast and fit a powerful turn in to a fast uh imposing section so that’s why one turn gets a lot of it’s exciting to watch that you watch Jordy and you go it’s very competent surfing but there’s low
Energy you know and so that’s how get judged I love the term the term you just used thrilling it was spot on I think that’s uh something that we should focus more on as we go through the year and watch these guys which ride is thrilling and uh that’s where these one turn
Wonders sometimes two turns are better than five soft roundhouses yeah exactly so I’m down with that um the so I guess we have to talk about survival League unfortunately going into this event I I told you my pick was Baron Baron lost I’m out of survival league
But going into the event I honestly had Jordy in my mind because of that pipeline performance I was like you know Baron’s the obvious pick I’m not going to use Baron throughout the rest of the season but Jordy he’s looking good like he’s won out here in the past and he’s looking
Good coming out of pipe and I just opted against it but in my gut I almost knew that I should have picked Jordy and then watching this event unfold I really really wanted to kick myself yeah I haven’t received my um you lost email you’re you’re a loser email from the
Survival League folks but I lost as well I had L Leo F of ATI wow he had a great heat he was almost like he it was one of those buzzer meters that was a risky pick man I don’t know I I I looked at it like like that’s
An under the radar one that Leo serves great and big Sunset like I could see Lao in the semi-finals you know like I I didn’t feel like it was risky I I felt like you know there’s going to be 16 guys or whatever that or eight guys is
It 16 yeah they’ll be six he’ll be one of the 16 that gets through yeah I mean it’s it’s so demoralizing to lose in survival it is like you’re like I had five picks that I was vying between four of them made it through I picked the one
That didn’t it’s and it’s event number two like I cannot get past a couple of events in survival League every year I don’t know what my best performance is it’s probably not past the third event of the Season yeah it’s hard it’s that’s why it makes it makes it really fun you
Know I mean if you’re still in it you’re you’re really geeking out and I don’t know how many are still in it I bet I bet with Baron we lost quite a few guys because you and I were kind of pimping Baron beforehand I think they even survival League even said in an
Instagram that Baron was the most picked Surfer of sunset I think I could be wrong about that and that’s amazing in two events we’ve cut the the field like to about probably I don’t know 80% is probably the cut yeah bet you’re right cuz the first event
56% uh lost out in the first event so that brought it down to 44 immediately um so the other kind of highlight performances here of course Jack Robinson multi multiple time winner at this event um I mean this if you look at Sunset you kind of think oh who do I
Associate with sunset John John Florence was in my conversation at the top of my head prior to this event but coming out of the event Jack Robinson is now in that number one position I feel like this it this is his venue he’s the guy to beat at sunset at this point his
Style of Surfing obviously is um power-based his prowess to find the barrel out there is really unmatched I mean he he ends up in the waves that he does get Barrel on anybody else would get up and look for that barrel and find the barrel and
Come out of it but he’s doing a big turn and then adjusting somehow like there’s a lot of around to cover but he’s able to kind of project out of a bottom turn coming off of a big top turn into the tube fitting into fitting in turns and
Then on that wave that he surfed in the final got a second Barrel somehow you know so just the amount of ground that he covers um it’s almost like somebody surfing lowers or some or Snapper or something like multiple turns into the tube and then coming out and doing it
Again at Sunset it’s incredible yeah he’s a name you know as you look back in history uh as a fan and not being a guy that lives there and knows all the guys that are out in the water there every day but just sort of a broad overview we think
Of or I think of like well there’s names that you associate with Sunset Beach as you mentioned and so there’s like Jeff Hackman like I associate Jeff Hackman with Sunset Beach I associate Ian kirens with Sunset Beach obviously Barry kayia pone is probably the number one name you
Associate with Sunset Beach and then as you go through the history you know maybe um you know there’s some other guys that I’m like Gary Kong El curton kind of comes to mind from a competitive standpoint miles padaka has done really well out there Sunny Garcia and then you
Get to John John and you get to Jack Robinson and he’s in that conversation of like it looks like he’s married married to sunset in many ways it’s kind of the way Jamie O’Brien or Kelly is at pipeline is the way Jack surf’s Sunset Beach like it’s he’s just on a on an
Etheral level without wave it’s a it’s really kind of special to watch um I think we have to give credit as well to Eric erawa and the boards that he makes for Jack Robinson yeah because like I said the amount of ground that he covers but also with like the lightning fast
Twitch adjustments you know to like Snap into the tube or whatever it’s he’s surfing Sunset a different way than every other person that you mentioned leading up to this and it is largely cap he’s largely capable of doing that because of the boards covering that amount of ground and the
Projection that you get the speed that you can carry um through you know the softer sections of the wave carrying speed through that and then having maneuverability in addition to the projection drive that he’s getting out of it it’s just really quite the combo and I know he’s obvious been working
With Eric erawa for over a decade now since Jack was really young on boards for Hawaii but he is a sharpy team Rider so he’s fine-tuning his sharpy pointy thrusters for almost any other venue on tour but then with an agreement probably with sharpy saying hey when I go to
Hawaii I gotta ride my eraas and this is precisely why like that wave requires a very specialized surfboard and they’ve been working on it for a decade yeah it’s interesting because now you know we look at how Jack does for the rest of the year on tour with sort
Of a Keener eye on how his boards are performing and especially as you and I um digest stab in the dark and we watch how Koh is adapting to different boards I mean if one thing that’s interesting about stab in the dark is that it’s helped me to have a more Discerning Eye
When I really watch the water flow off of these boards and and where they’re U maybe stuck in the middle of a bottom turn or whatever the case may be you know um so it’ll be interesting to see how the um how Jack performs on the
Sharp eyes making the jump you know and of course you know he has history of doing great on him so it’ll be fun to watch let’s talk about stab in the dark I mean we can come back to Sunset if things you know if you’re reminded of
Certain things but are you ready to discuss stab in the dark because some of what you said I would love to break yeah break let me take a break and um we’ll come back and talk okay sounds good Scott bass we are about to talk about
Stab in the dark with Chloe Andino and so many of those surfboards that he rides in this series are available at realwatersports dcom heck yeah and you know what else was available the Ryan sacle saber so those boards and I’m not sure which ones trip carries at real of those ones are
Probably carries pisel right I don’t want to say yeah definitely lost definitely which of those ones okay which of go ahead and give me the list of the ones that real waterports carries that you know of that were on the stab in the dark um I well I can’t I can’t
Say for certain but a bunch of them okay half of them at least well wa I know for certain that the Ryan seal saber yeah you can get at real wat Sports and look Christensen Maurice Cole’s a bunch of boards unreal selection of surf boards from tripping the crew at real water
Sports so make sure you um go there check out what they got and David Fill Me In now if I’m just like last minute Larry guy and I need a board ship to me what do they do there at real wat Sports regarding shipping well the entire shipping business has
Kind of an economies of scale to it and so the more that you ship the better rates that you get you know they’ve they buy all the shipping materials in bulk so they get that stuff for cheap so they’re able to ship surfboards for one low flat fee anywhere on the planet
They’re shipping experts as much as they are experts on anything water sport related they’re experts on shipping and so trip told me a story a while back about there was a guy in Indo On A Boat Trip who broke his quiver of boards that he had brought ordered from real water
Sports real water sports was able to deliver them to his boat in Indonesia before the end of his trip a brand new quiver of surfboards so if you live somewhere in a home in a residential area no problem they’ll get it to your door and they actually guarantee it to
Show up blemish free which you don’t get that guarantee if you buy somewhere else you might walk out to your car and drop it on the ground that’s not showing up at your house blemish free this will show up at your door blemish free so pretty incredible that’s cool may maybe
They’ll be shipping El Salvador you know who knows maybe so realwatersports doccom okay stab in the dark episode three with Colo and Dino I’m gonna go out there and just say I think this was the single best episode of stab in the dark that I’ve ever witnessed wow didn’t we say that last
Week gets better each time I said I I definitely said this is the best um season that they’ve done or install installment that they’ve done but maybe you’re right maybe I did say it was the last episode previously I really felt that to be true on this episode I
Totally agree and and it it started out great um but really the Highlight was when pisel joined the frey and um he started talking about you know the different vagaries of surfboard design and all the different ones and they asked him to to they gave him a shot at picking which boards were
Made by by who and that was a lot of fun and fascinating to watch yeah really was CU there’s so much little little things that he’s saying that that are just from a surfer uh you know from an end user of a a surfboards it’s it’s kind of fun to
Listen to you know somebody that’s so knowledgeable and um you know his topic about can’t making making the magic board you can’t make it you and I had that discussion numerous times and he just kind of did a better job of reiterating all of those little things
About why a magic surfboard is is impossible to replicate so to break it down for people who don’t have stab premium um they’re filming this in uh in Bali and pisel happens to spend months out of the Year there summer months basically and so he happened to be there while they were
Filming and um you know they crossed paths and so they Incorporated him into the edit and the storyline and then they said you know without KO pisel come over to the house and look at all the surfboards a try to pick your surfboard B try to identify the other Shapers and
Then C try to pick a winner who which of these boards do you think is going to win he opted to not you know he said my board’s gonna win basically um but the interesting thing was he identified his own surfboard within 7 Seconds out of
The 12 boards on the rack he instantly they go okay stopwatch boom he scans them all real quick grabs one looks at the tail goes boom this is it and they’re like yep that’s it um and what was more interesting about that is he didn’t even shape that board so pisel
Obviously lives in Hawaii but he has Productions set up in different places in the world one of which is California and so he has a shaper DJ Kane who builds those boards in California shapes those boards for him in California obviously they’re coming off of files
That are cut on a machine and then the shaper finishes the uh the preut down to Jon’s exacting specs but the fact that Jon obviously knows his specs that well and that DJ can replicate the boards to John specification so much so that he
Can pick it up off a rack in Bali and identify it is pretty incredible I mean I would expect him to be able to do it but it’s very impressive yeah it was it was it was neat that that he was just able to Boom seven seconds ago this is
It boom and he said it was such conviction and confidence and he was of course correct and um can we just talk a little bit about DJ Kane because that guy has made me some incredible surfboards over the years I’m such a big fan of his and it made me realize like I
Was almost like God I need to I’ve actually tried to order a board and he’s like I’m so busy right now with the pisel you know like he just gets swamped but he made me a board called the swordfish that I rode for years was an incredible for Fin and I just absolutely
Love that board it’s probably 15 years ago or 10 years ago that I had that board but um that’s one of those ones where you’re like I wish I still had that board you know what I mean maybe I should just call him and get but DJ Kane
Dennis he’s a great obviously great shaper in his own right um so yeah you can get pel’s you know California pisel is going to be shaped by him and um or you just yeah order one from from if you can get lucky it’s harbor side glassing is in
Oceanside is where is where Dennis where DJ Kane works out of I’m requesting a DJ Kane boardroom podcast yeah a good idea I that’s a great idea that’s a great idea for sure so so yes John pel’s phenomenal addition to the conversation in stab in the dark
But the other detail prior to him coming on screen that really made me fall in love with this episode I’m I think was an improvement even on the previous versions was there are many documentaries within the episode on the individual board Builders and how they came to be and
They have been doing this before I think they’ve gotten better and better at it whoever is writing the story researching the backstory and then the way that they edit it the archival photos and footage that they get is incredible um so you know Timmy Patterson for example rewind all the way
To Walter Hoffman then to Timmy’s his grandfather Timmy’s grandfather Yeah was in the Navy and was taking balla out of life rafts that they were decommissioning and he was taking that and building surfboard blanks out of it yeah so providing that level of history and storytelling within a very compact
90 seconds like I said it’s a mini documentary it’s surf history documentary in the middle of these episodes and so I thought back to how they’ve done it in the past how they help help Shapers tell their stories about the boards that the surfer is writing and they’ve done it through
Interviews at times with the surfboard shaper but I realized it’s actually more effective storytelling to do it the way that they’re doing it in this episode like to have somebody research it and have a narrator tell the story and show all this archival footage and imagery with it is like incredibly insightful I
Like to also hear the interviews with the Shapers but I just think this is a more thorough concise way of doing it it’s concise yeah and then so I loved all that and then to have the access to pisel to kind of come through from the shaper’s perspective get the full
Interview break down his perspective on all of these things was you know icing on the cake basically depth to this episode that other episodes have not achieved and then the surf in was you know Pop level like koh’s surfing in this episode he surfed a couple of great
Uh days like where the waves were really good and so seeing him kind of light it up was made it the most well-rounded complete episode I feel um what was the number one thing that you learned from this episode a trick question it’s a trick question I don’t know what was the
Number one thing you learned from this episode I did not ever associate Joel tutor with Timmy Patterson and longboard a world title phenomenal 2004 Joel tutor won a World title on a Timmy Patterson longboard I’ve never heard of that ever yeah you know that’s amazing that’s not something that you would put together
Yep that was a phenomenal tidbit of information it was I was blown away by that I was like wow I can’t believe I didn’t know that can’t believe Joel’s never mentioned that and I’m sure he has I just haven’t spoken with him about it but I’ve heard you know you think of
Joel you think of Donald aama you think of Joel tutor surfboards you think of you know like bunch of old school Santa crw uh San Diego guys you know BAC whoever but you don’t think of Timmy patters no um the other history lesson that they gave us was Hayden Cox yeah
And it made me realize man ha Hayden has really been maligned um and painted fairly I think with a kind of he gets discounted by I don’t know a lot of I don’t know course conversation because of the model that the industrialized surfboard model that he
Has uh you know used to grow his business but he is an incredible guy you know like it’s it’s so impressive what he’s done with his business and his brand I think what happens with Hayden a little bit is that tall poppy syndrome especially in Australia where if like
You get real successful you get cut down and I think that Hayden is just so successful that he’s easy he’s an easy target he’s easy fod it’s easy to cut down that Poppy and make him try to make him the the same height as everybody else and um and you know that’s
Unfortunate because he’s obviously very talented young or at this point he’s a just a normal AED guy nor noral age everyone seems young to me everyone seems you seem young everyone seems like groms you know dude just as a side note real quick Lauren into the Bachelor and
I’m I’m watching it over his shoulder the other night and I go when was this show like featuring kids you know like I thought the bachelor was like adults that were dating this is like children dating and she’s like no it’s always been the same age people they’re like in
Their mid 20s you got old you know but I’m like I remember watching The Bachelor and it was like full grown oh there’s an attorney there’s a doctor there’s a nurse whatever teacher they’re full grown adults I’m looking at it now going what did they just get out of high school it’s
Crazy and they’re acting like high schoolers why are they all so stupid um anyways neither lawn yeah there’s neither here or there anyways Hayden I I don’t to be perfectly honest I don’t think I ever formed an opinion about Hayden and I a feeling there’s some people listening going there’s a reason
I don’t like Hayden and it’s well Justified you know or whatever all I know is coming out of this I am very impressed by what he has built and um his work ethic obviously he’s incredibly smart he’s obviously talented in a variety of ways but it was just very
Impressive to get that little history lesson so I appreciated that and I think too with Hayden and I don’t know him or uh his wife but I think that his wife probably you know with every great man there’s a greater woman behind him type of thing and I think she probably drives
A lot of initiatives that we don’t know about and so um without knowing that I’m gonna say hats off to Danielle for being a big part of I think his success I reached out years and years ago for a podcast interview and I got an email
Back from her and she was like hey we would appreciate any support in any way um have you read book I think it’s called New Wave Vision or New Wave or something and I’m like no and she goes I’m going to send you a copy just the only thing that I would
Ask is before we do the podcast interview is that you just read the book I was like okay sweet so she sent me the book and then I didn’t read it and so I never followed up for the interview but but I but I that’s my
Fault but I appr like you well you know whatever I had a million things to do and probably a bunch of other interviews that happened came together in quick succession and I I mean I will do it eventually in the future I think he did
She put a no no no no the exact opposite I was impressed I was like you should make the interviewer jump through a there’s they probably get hit up by a bunch of half-ass interviewers starting up a podcast or something and Hayden can’t take 90 minutes out of his day to
Do all of those you know so all that you have to do is create one hoop for the interviewer to jump through that will at least position them better to actually conduct the interview and that’s a perfect hoop to jump through I think it was totally reasonable but I I agree
With everything you’re saying is that she was it was she’s great you know like that proved to me like oh wow she’s invested in this she is um you know operating on the behalf of the business and fantastic I’m all for it yeah totally agree so so yeah um well
Unfortunately he didn’t like the Klo didn’t necessarily like the Hayden and um he went through that pretty quick which I was surprised by I watched him on the haen and I thought he looked good and there was moments of like bogging or whatever but I thought there was moments
Of Brilliance in it as well so I expected him to come in and say I need to Surf this again maybe in different conditions and I was shocked when he came in and just denied it yeah there were a few boards where it just looked like they didn’t have the
Quickness the instant speed that Koh seems to demand what he calls Drive which what I would call more like I mean Drive is a fine word for it but that feeling where as soon as you get up you’ve got the speed you need that you don’t have to do anything to get the
Speed going so that now you can perform Maneuvers and that board and a few other boards looked like they didn’t have what Koh was deeming to be drive right uh well there’s a couple more eliminations the finalist setup for March 5th episode number four and the four surfboards that
Made it into the final hukas DHD Patterson and borst I’m psyched so knowing what we know that there was a sense of astonishment perhaps or surprise I guess would be a better way to say it based on the very first episode where they they have chlo talking to his dad and they
Bleep out winner and they basically say wow can you believe it or something along those lines um as if they were surprised makes you think what borst right like who’s the winner here who like if you’re gonna based on what you’ve seen too it’s it’s you’re right
It’s super interesting and this is a ongoing conversation with us since episode one but it could be Patterson like I said last week well here’s what’s weird I feel like the pukas board we didn’t see a whole lot like he just kind of wrote it
And he loved it and he goes that’s it and they’ve shelved it for three episodes I feel like that one hasn’t been I almost feel like he hasn’t had enough time on it you know what I mean but who knows like it’s G to be fun to
Watch what happens um so you think it’s Timmy I don’t I mean I really don’t feel strongly about it but I think that an argument could be made again he doesn’t know what a blowout is he used the term blowout and that’s what we were focused
On for the first couple of episodes um none of these would be a blowout and so but I but I do think that he could have been referring to the fact that like I said maybe his dad rode Timmy’s back in the day Timmy and biolis which is koo’s
Lifelong shaper are live across you know work across the alley from one another essentially yeah and so there’s kind of that Hometown like oh this is crazy the neighbor of my lifelong shaper won and it’s some boards that my dad wrote I think that could be maybe what he’s
Pointing at but the Bor you’re right the borst would be very interesting if that was the winner too well I mean they all looked good the Bor looked super loose um you know I don’t know like yeah you know he surfed so good they all look pretty good
It was easy to see the wars that he didn’t like it was more difficult for me to go which ones are is he really excited about and um I almost feel like he was sort of eliminating boards based on you know it was easier for him to go
I definitely don’t like this one rather than oh all the upside of this one there was a few boards early on where like this one absolutely I think it was the DHD that he’s absolutely in love with number 22 if you recall couple episodes ago he’s like this one’s in the final
Guaranteed for sure yep yep you’re right well I’m excited I love this series it is well worth my uh whatever amount that I spend on stab premium seven bucks a month or something like that um yeah there was a couple of other surf events this past week that I
Thought I saw them kind of advertised in advance I thought they’re cool local events and then they delivered incredible surf one was the Thriller at killas which is the big wave event um in Baja and then the other one was Kulu perfetto which is a super tubos event in
Portugal um running in a beach the beach break barrel barreling spot they got phenomenal waves for that event Rob Machado it’s kind of an I think it’s an invite um event I think it might be the first annual even but I had somebody one of our listeners sending me information
On it for the last month or two like hey this event’s coming up we’re going to get some super cool people it’s going to be an amazing local event and they ran in phenomenal surf it seems like it ran in one day uh the finals Ballam stack
Made the final Dylan Graves made the final Rob Machado made the final it was won by a local kid whose name is um Thiago stock I think is his name little but to for a local kid to get those guys in the final and then win first prize
Over all of them was just an amazing finish to that event that’s really cool so I don’t know uh Capo perfetto so Portuguese event and then the Thriller pull it up here yeah the Thriller at killas uh Cody Purcell won in the men’s division and Katie McConnell won in the women’s division
And it seemed again like they got incredible waves there and Paige alms surfed in the event Bianca Valente surfed in the event I saw JoJo rooper get a wave in the event um so kind of cool to see these local homegrown specialty events popping up not popping
Up but they’ve always been there but um there’s always been versions of them but they scored well anyway I’m trying to find it here but can’t seem to find it anyway it exists I promise I know it does I’m just wondering if oh okay I just pulled it up
Here’s the finalist with Rob and Dylan and this kid’s just psyched you know and he’s like 23 and they’re 40 I know um rad to see Rob though traveling to an event and also getting shacked when he gets there yeah super cool um one followup from last week you were
Talking about the Orca or I guess might have been two weeks ago the orcas um off the coast of one of your local peers I forget which yeah and then and then I was like have orcas ever eaten anybody or you know like what is the actual threat
With an Orca when you’re confronted like that and somebody chimed Jared chimed in and he said there are no records of orcas eating humans and I believe only known attacks have been in captivity good for them uh it seems like they don’t have any interest in attacking us
But are territorial or protective with attacks on boats off the coast of Europe either way it would still probably be pretty freaky to see one if you are out there and I’d much rather but I’d much rather see an orca than a shark keep up the great work thanks Jared wow all
Right Jared coming through it as you know um I did an interview with Kyle Knox it’s in the latest boardroom podcast that’ll probably be live in a little couple days or whatever um and we talk about the encounter that they had the adventure that they had off of La
Hoya with a pot of orcas it was quite thrilling and exhilarating and scary and um I don’t know orcas because of their intelligence um I’m kind of freaked out plus I think because I watched blackw was that the documentary where one of the Orca like dismembers a SeaWorld
Trainer no I don’t mean to laugh it’s not funny but yeah sad yeah and that was like he said the only attacks have been in captivity and it seems to be out of um spite it was that one orca tickl I think was its name there was an orca named
Tickl okay or something like that that was like Angry you know angry orc yeah well being in captivity will do that to you yeah but that’s what you’re talking about with the intelligence you know there’s a lot of um uh I don’t know less cognitively developed animals that were be happy to
Be in captivity let’s say presumably but yeah they’re happy to have the shelter from their predators and a constant food source but Orca seem to be intelligent enough to know that that’s not their best life so yeah let’s get out of there um well so I was looking at this this um
Event in Portugal that you brought up yeah and there’s all of these competitors there’s like the surf Stars there’s like national champions from Portugal there’s Young Guns and then there’s one other little category that they put and they just call it wild card and there’s only
One guy and it’s Thiago stock the guy that won like there’s all these different layers and you go to the bottom of the website and there’s one guy Thiago stock and he was the winner well specifically I didn’t mention this he surfed through the trials event I guess they had a
Trials event so he won access via that wild card entry by winning an event and then went on to win the main event so it’s really a story oh that’s so cool and the waves like you said are firing go check out capul perto.com Capo perto.com and you check out the videos
They got the the waves were firing it’s like super clean heaving barrels I guess is it super tubos yeah it’s incredible super cool event yeah where the killer well I have a mustsee moment for you and it’s You by trees wax that’s right thank you petrolium free surf wax can you
Imagine that made from rocks and trees oh my God good wax good for the environment what’s not like trees wax.com lots of local retailers have it but you can grab a Bo a box at uh trees wax.com musty moment Gary Kong alterton 1987 best ever at Sunset Beach this is
From real surf stories on YouTube video was just posted a few days ago uh five days ago it’s got 50,000 views quote from the man himself Gary Kong alerton quote if you couldn’t compete in Hawaii you were a nobody end quote boom yeah that’s there’s no doubt about that
And that’s what it should be so Sur photographer and filmmaker um Tony Roberts from Santa Cruz California is behind that that uh YouTube account TR TR real surf stories oh that’s cool TR so tr’s been filming surfing since early 80s and um has it all archived and then also has been
Traveling the world doing that you know so he he’s interacted with all of these people and he has a real passion for storytelling and so he was doing a podcast for a little while I don’t think he does it anymore but I think he’s really found a perfect medium with
YouTube doing these little documentaries and he has a passion for you know um like in the conversation that we’re having about Felipe Toledo let’s say in Hawaii and sunset it’s like he knows oh my gosh there’s an important moment and it was 1987 with Kong and I have footage
Of this and I know the story and so he’s taking the time to document surf hisory he’s already taken the time to do that now he’s taking the time to tell it with the context of modern day and so it’s really amazing I think so this video um
He does some narr like he wrote a script does the narration but then posts all of the much like the stab piece that I was talking about posts imagery to provide the context then post his footage from Sunset from 1987 throughout it with little interstitials with uh interviews with
Gary Kong El elkerton so this is an8 minute video I will post it on surfs Splender podcast.com with today’s show and uh yeah it’s just a great little piece of surf history mini documentary I love it I love it and Tony’s about my age so we kind of went through the same
Stuff as kids like the stuff that was important to us in the surf culture space and I’m gonna I don’t know if he has done this one yet but I’m gonna ask Tony to do one for us and you and I spoke about this a couple of weeks ago
But there was an event in 1986 the bong Pro and it moved from Sunset Beach to yeha Bay and bunch of professional Surfers just did not paddle out and in light of um you know Sunset and Hawaii being the most important place for surfing it would be cool if TR could do
One of these on that event that moment um you know I know Mark Richards has has spoken about it at length and um like let’s find out what happened that day not I guess that’s kind of we like I don’t want to necessarily shame somebody for not paddling out it hwan man but
It’s a fascinating part of surf history and um on some level I don’t think we should just bury it you know like it because it it coin or it contrasts with the smernoff at yeha when Fred hemings is like look we’re going out we’re having this contest and if you guys are
Afraid I’m going to put on a a Jersey right now and paddle out and show you that with this can be done yeah and and he went out and did that so you can kind of like you know fast forward to 12 years Hawaii May Bay this one time and
All of a sudden the same thing’s happening competitors going I don’t know man and it’s on Randy Rick’s going we’re going yeah and it’d be it’ll be a fun might be a fun one for surf fans to watch I agree that’s phenomenal so this EP or this uh video that I just
Mentioned it’s part of an ongoing kind of series that he is doing on his YouTube channel called days that changed surfing and he gives you the exact date with each of the videos and I’ll just tell you some of the previous ones days that change surfing pots versus uh Tom Curran at Holly
Eva um days that change surfing July 20th 1885 the first Surfers ever in the US days that change surfing July 21st 1984 J Bay Mark ulupo um Kelly Slater Bud tour 1990 September 9th so lots of really cool moments in history how Bob McTavish George greo Nat young change surfing
Forever of course we’re honoring Bob McTavish I just had a phone call with him yesterday at The Boardroom Show in October everyone can come out and meet Bob McTavish he’s the greatest guy such a wonderful uh gregarious and engaging personality and if you want to meet a guy that chained surfing Forever The
Boardroom Show show in October um plug plug plug but yeah TR great work on these real surf stories I just subscribed to his YouTube channel I didn’t even know it existed and I’m so stoked I’m gonna take a peek at all of these and um probably probably pull some
Information out of them for my own needs yeah great idea yeah that video um that you were just referencing the Bob McTavish one was July 23rd 1966 so really cool stuff here great work TR musty moment presented by trees wack one last thing and then we’ll go but um
I do have a a little bit of a weather update so Lin is supposed to kick in we’re on the tail end of anel Nino and Lin is supposed to kick in and according to a chief meteorologist from acuweather Jonathan Porter the Atlantic hurricane season although it doesn’t kick off
Until June 1st there are already serious and growing concerns about the Imp pending Atlantic hurricane season the two key factors that have the ACU weather forecasting sounding the alarm uh the return of linia as I mentioned and historically warm water across the Atlantic Ocean right now so
That Kel noino is fading out um but as Porter explained um linia typically leading to plenty of Storms and hurricanes and now with um warm Waters uh it’s there expecting a lot of hurricanes and that that even means like in the Texas area down there in the Gulf of Mexico um that
Whole region so be on the alert excellent you know what I need to make a note of and you can remind me maybe next episode our listeners who are going to El Salvador with us in April yes via VIA Waterway travel.com want to know what boards we are preparing to bring for the
Trip and then they also want me to put together like a group email for everybody that’s going to share the information about what boards everybody else is bringing that’s great I’m undecided I saw your beautiful John Simon that you’re bringing right yep what kind of fin configuration are we
Talking about I’m glad you asked um I emailed jam and Le at nvs I said hey what do I do here it’s a quad setup and it’s asymmetrical I am completely lost and going off the GD yeah and Jamon goes you know what I’m gonna call John
Simon and we’ll figure it out so I’ve been out of the conversation and they’ve been communicating directly and Jamon followed up with me and he goes hey we’re just gonna make something specific to that board and we’ll get it to John and um you know he can so I think
They’re getting it to Jon Jon’s going to test it out because JN has a similar obvious board you know model that he’s made for me so he’s going to test the fins out on his own and they’re going to tweak them probably and so that’s what
I’ll be writing all right well let me I’ve I’ve given you this hint before but you have an asymmetrical surfboard why would you have symmetrical fins and so my point is if you have a toide twin fin put some heels on it and if you have a
Heelside quad fin put some quads on you know by the way you might put one of Shawn Madison’s nubers in the middle and I I’ve spoken to you again about this before but I’ve had an asymmetrical board that had five completely different fins and I mean like some were Futures some were
Fcss yeah yeah well I’m gonna be yeah go ahead I’m I’m all ears I’m listening to what you’re saying but I’m also removing myself from the decision making I’m Gonna Leave it to those guys and see what they come up with yeah that’s probably smart you should probably
Here’s what you should do yield to them then yield to your intuition and then whatever I say disregard yep well that’s that’s one of the boards that I’m bringing but we one you’re bringing more than one I’m gonna bring three boards holy incredible go ahead what else you
Got well I don’t know I haven’t decided on the other ones but what you think three’s too many for a week I think one’s too many no one’s perfect I’m bringing one board says the guy with 300 surfboards I’m bringing one board and it’s going to be a twins
Are and I think it’s going to be the one Ryan seel’s making me but it might be the one Stu kon’s making me just depends on who gets me the board first I got to try it I’m not gonna take it without trying it so right now I know I’m
Bringing a twins are as of now okay and if that board gets damaged in transit before we even get there yeah I’ll be riding one of yours exactly yeah exact that’s exactly you know what I’m not letting probably be buying it from you I’m not letting you ride one of mine I
Might bring a foil too perfect there’s fewer people in the water then there’s one fewer wave hog out with us it’s gonna be fun I’m looking forward to seeing what the other guys are bringing yeah I’ll I’ll put that uh I’ll organize that email get everybody I mean
The reality is I think he asked me a couple of weeks ago because he wanted enough time to order a board but now I’ve probably botched that timeline by delaying but back on has our every man in the dark surfboard uh testing thing just Fallen away or we just don’t have
The energy to pull that off I still want to do it I have not had the energy up until now to do it but I think it’s still feasible we yeah we just need we need a video guide that will do the editing work yeah yeah I think it’s still
Feasible we’ll work towards it all right well look great show David um until next time adios and aloha
11 Comments
Yeah guy yeah guy!
I agree with the hosts that the women are so compelling in heavy surf; the are charging, just as you say.
Come on man. You tease the intro? Play the entire thing! It's like the barrel section starts to throw and my vr goggles shut off.
Just switch trestles with cloudbreak , final in fiji.
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Caroline is also only 21 yrs old I believe. It’s just that Caity, Molly & Betty Lu are like 17, 18 and 20 respectively. Ha.
The older guard certainly looked out of sorts at sunset and pipe however. The dismal conditions for the first couple days of the women’s event at pipe didn’t help. Then for the younger gals to blow up on finals day would certainly not be inspiring for their confidence I would think.
Nice surfing Scott! Hope to catch a few with you next time you're in Hatteras.
Hey Guys, great show as usual… thanks for the Mention. So here is my take from the sand. I, like Scott arrived early that morning, and had to wait a couple of hours for things to improve. But as the tide dropped and the sun came out, I could see that there was some magic starting brew, so I walked at least a quarter mile down the beach, so I could shoot into the barrel. At that point I got my big lens out and bingo… "Scott was on fire" and that Ryan Sakal board looked so good under his feet, so fast, and yet Scott had complete control and command, whenever he wanted to step into a barrel, he did. I could not believe I captured those rides. I literally drove home pulled the SD card out of my camera and backed up the clips twice. Harry Martin aka. Papa Surf
Women are surfing great, but if finals day stays a thing, it's gonna be tough to beat Caroline's backside attack.
Just stumbled on this YouTube vid last week. It's from July of 2023, but relates to Jordy's start to the season https://youtu.be/JzGskVHU_Bw?si=nwesm1A-GdhqTruG
Dudes! I just saw Jimbo in Santa Cruz! He lost a ton of weight and a couple of teeth and not in a good way.. I wanted to get a picture but couldn’t..