IFSC Worldcup Lead Finals Women in Chamonix 2023.
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Finalists
Vita Lukan
Mia Krampl
Helene Janicot
Miho Nonaka
Jain Kim
Nonoha Kume
Jessica Pilz
Chaehyun Seo
Commentator
Matt Groom
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15 Comments
Congrats to Jain! What a legend! 💪
I was surprised to see her still competing, somehow I thought she stopped doing comps.
That was a real shame from beginning to end. First of all, forgetting a hold in a final route and realising it AFTER the observation? Next problem: What about Seo? She was brutally honest with the situation, outclipped the long draw, clipped in in the right order and leveled the whole situation with her action. She had obviously NO benefit at all, but an additional struggle due to the outclipping. Yeah "rules are rules", but thats just stupid. And then, we see here our Matt Groom. A man, that is so misplaced, it is painful to watch him. But what we've learned in the livestream: NOT EVEN HE WATCHES THE CLIMBING. In the full livestream he said, that the quickdraw "clipped in itself" because he didnt watch, when she made the mistake. He is so embarrassing for the whole community and that for in itself is a good reason to look for someone else. The fact, that IFSC made him talk about the RED-S statement from the IFSC, but not about the whole problem at all, speaks enough. Bro, you should pull yourself out of their dark spot, before its too late.
What a final full of shame.
Warum zur Hölle war das ein Disqualifikationsgrund??
Ich finde es einfach beschämend, was mit Seo passiert ist. – Entweder war es eine falsche Regelanwendung. Oder es ist eine schlechte Regel.
Und ja, dass Matt es so gar nicht klärt, ist auch sehr unbefriedigend.
(Ich wusste nicht, dass man allgemein so unzufrieden ist mit ihm. Aber ich finde auch, dass es jemanden bräuchte, der etwas genauer dem Geschehen an der Wand folgt, es präziser und differenzierter beschreibt.)
Bro.. what the park?! How come she missed that? Did she tripping out or sleepover? Poor Seo. The biggest mistake in her whole career.
Respect to Kim The living legend. Old but Gold.
Regarding Seo, I just looked up the Ifsc lead climbing rules from their official website and at section 7.17 A 2. b it states if competitors "Z-clip" they must correct it and may un- and reclip any of the "Protection Points".
So Seo didn't do a Z but otherwise I feel like she acted perfectly according to the rules. I don't understand why she wasn't allowed to continue.
Jeez, what a shame for Chaehyun… The most brutal application of the rules. She had a real chance at gold there, with no Janja there and all. Weird that the commentators dind't catch it as well. Cheers for Jain though! Nice to see her competing again!
What a shame what happened to Seo! ☹️Not sure about the rules but it should change since she unclipped the wrong quickdraw and then clipped the good one ☝️
That reminds me when Romain Desgranges put accidentally his foot over an promotional signage and was disqualified 😤
It would be great to keep adding the athlete’s information banner appearing at the beginning of each start on the video.
The IFSC rules are getting more and more ridiculous 🙄
why couldnt Seo climb on? she corrected her longdraw. she didnt have an unfair advantage. but she had to stop WHY? maybe the rules are just that strict and harsh
Chaehyun Seo!!! Please know we LOVE YOU and please dont get discouraged!! ❤❤❤
Jain ♥♥♥
Well done to Jain she outclimbed everyone and deserves the win 💪
It was a shame what hapened to Seo
that clipping rule is so fucking stupid, like many here already commented, if se CORRECTED it herself (which was obviously extra effort) why would someone be disqualified? there was no advantage gained from it.