Over a decade ago, former Westword food editor Mark Antonation began his food-writing career by eating his way up Federal Boulevard. Now, we’re turning our attention to another vibrant culinary corridor.
The four-plus-mile stretch of Havana Street between Dartmouth and Sixth Avenue in Aurora is home to the most diverse array of international cuisine available in the metro area. From restaurants and markets to take-and-go shops and stands, food lovers of nearly any ethnicity or interest can find a place that will remind them of home or open new culinary doors. In Eat Up Havana, Antony Bruno will visit them all, one by one, week by week. Check out his previous stops.
This week, Bruno visits Golf Ethiopian Restaurant.
Golf Ethiopian Restaurant might be easy to miss from the street, but is a welcoming and friendly place to enjoy East African food.
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The further north you drive up Aurora’s Havana Street, the more it begins to tilt toward East African cuisine. More specifically, this means the cuisines of Ethiopia, Sudan, and Somalia, based on the clusters of eateries found along the boulevard.
Among them, Ethiopian is perhaps the most recognizable, at least in terms of expectations. Say “Ethiopian food,” and it conjures images of brightly colored stews and meats served on a spongy flatbread called injera that doubles as both plate and utensil. And, of course, eating with your hands.
But at many of these establishments, what’s billed as “Ethiopian” is really a catchall for dishes that hail from neighboring countries as well. That’s particularly true at Golf Ethiopian Restaurant. A quick glance at the menu, positioned prominently above the counter where you place your orders, shows a list of such Ethiopian staples as tibs (fried meat) and wot (stews).
But there are also a few standout specials that cross the Ethiopian border. There’s Karanga, dubbed here the “Somalian Special,” which is a slow-cooked lamb “wet fry” that’s also popular in Kenya and Tanzania. There’s also a liver-forward dish beloved by neighboring Eritrea. And then there’s a dry beef dish with peppers popular among the Sudanese.
For Bedru Hussien, who runs Golf Ethiopian with his wife, Amatula Ahmed, and her brother, Abdul, this practice of catering to the entire East Africa region rather than a strict focus on Ethiopian traditions is both good business and good-natured.
“I want to try to say ‘welcome’ to all,” Hussien says. “We want to bring more service for everyone. I don’t want to depend on [diners of] just one religion, just one nationality.”
Bedru Hussien runs Golf Ethiopian with his wife and her brother, with a mix of humor and hospitality.
Modernizing While Staying Traditional
And that extends to non-Africans curious about the cuisine as well. Soon, Hussien plans to add a buffet-style serving format, much like that seen at Indian restaurants, where diners can choose any three options for a flat price. The hope, he says, is to appeal to those who are curious about the food but lack the confidence to pick a single dish. This way, those guests can try a little bit of everything.
“They look, but don’t try,” Hussien says.
These are strategies gained after nearly fifteen years in business, and they are part of a broader revamping of the venerable establishment. In addition to the buffet, Golf Ethiopian has opened a larger, private room in the back, and put in a new floor, new ceiling, and a fresh coat of paint. All of which will be officially unveiled on January 15 as part of its fifteenth anniversary celebration.
Under all that sauce are two chicken drumsticks and two hard-boiled eggs, eaten by hand with the help of the injera bread on which it sits.
A History of Hospitality
Hussein and his wife met in Nairobi, where they also ran a restaurant before political unrest forced a move to the U.S. in 2001. Getting established here was difficult at first, including a stint experiencing homelessness with no possessions to his name but a bike to get him to two different jobs.
Perhaps that’s why Hussein seems so in love with his role manning the counter and serving food from his kitchen. He’s a bit of a character, delivering one-liners and making suggestions with a wry smile and sharp sense of humor.
When a guest apologizes for using up every single napkin available on the table while using only hands to eat, he brushes it off with a, “Who cares?” — admonishing the apology rather than the mess.
The “African Smoothie” is a refreshing and cool accompaniment to the spicy fare.
A Hands-ome Feast
And messy it can be, if you’re not accustomed to it. Unlike some Ethiopian restaurants that keep the portions small and easy to access with torn-off pieces of injera bread, Golf Ethiopian serves dishes in a large bowl. The spicy doro wot chicken features two drumsticks buried in a rich lentil stew with whole hard-boiled eggs.
Ever try to pick up a hard-boiled egg with a flimsy piece of bread? It’s hard!
But it’s also highly satisfying. Spicy, but not overly so. So flavorful that you’re willing to make a mess just for the opportunity to keep scooping up that bowl of awesome. And while there are many beverage options to go with your meal — such as teas, coffees, and sodas — perhaps your best bet is what Hussein calls an “African smoothie” featuring papaya, avocado, and mango.
“No sugar!” he says. “Very healthy.”
Served in a plastic cup with a straw poked through shrink wrap in lieu of lids, it’s an easy-to-down treat that cools the palate and acts as a de facto dessert as well.
The restaurant’s online menu bears very little resemblance to the actual menu, which you can view on-site on this poster board. Once it implements DoorDash, that may change.
Old Website, Loyal Customers
While you’re eating, expect to see a string of regulars entering the space, greeting each other with the traditional “Salem,” with nearly no need to order.
“Same thing,” Hussein asks a regular.
Just note, much of the information contained on the restaurant’s website is well out of date. Created by a customer “long ago,” Hussein says, he plans to get that updated as well, around the time that he implements DoorDash delivery options. Until then, know that the menu, pricing, and hours listed online are all out of date.
Despite all the updates, Golf Ethiopian remains a humble, simple place with few frills. But the food delivers.
Golf Ethiopian Restaurant is located at 10 South Havana Street in Aurora and is open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. For more information, visit golfethiopianrestaurant.com.
All the previous Eat Up Havana stops:
