Golf does not have a dress code problem. It has a translation problem.
Yes, golf needs a polo. That part has never really been up for debate. The issue is how narrowly we have defined what a polo can be, and how often we default to the same shiny athletic version without questioning it. Somewhere along the way, dress code compliant became synonymous with one fabric, one fit, and one look.
The reality is that the rules themselves are far more flexible than we give them credit for. Fabric choice, texture, collar construction, and overall fit all matter just as much as whether a shirt technically buttons at the neck.
If you understand what is already allowed, you can dress better without pushing boundaries or explaining yourself to a starter. These four collar types all pass the dress code, feel intentional, and open the door to better styling on course.
Same rules. Better choices.
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1. Knit Polo Collars
Knit polos in cotton or merino are the easiest upgrade you can make. They keep the classic polo silhouette intact but introduce texture and drape that immediately elevate the look and feel.
Styling-wise, this is where relaxing the fit slightly really pays off. Let the fabric fall naturally rather than clinging like a performance shirt. Neutral colors work best and pair effortlessly with tailored trousers or clean shorts. Keep logos minimal and let the knit do the talking.
2. Button Down Polo Collars
A button-down collar adds structure without tipping into formal territory. It is a subtle detail, but one that instantly makes a polo feel more intentional and considered.
This style works best when the rest of your outfit stays clean and simple. Pair it with tailored chinos or slightly wider leg trousers and keep patterns quiet. Avoid overly technical fabrics so the look stays relaxed rather than corporate.
3. Johnny Collars
Johnny Collars live in the sweet spot between relaxed and refined. Open by design, they feel confident and effortless when done in the right fabric and cut.
Fit matters more here than anywhere else. Keep it clean through the shoulders and chest, and stick to solid colors or soft striping. Balance the relaxed neckline with more structured bottoms so the look stays intentional.
4. Mocknecks
Mocknecks are no longer controversial. They are simply part of modern golf style. Clean lines, minimal branding, and a different neckline give them a sharp and contemporary feel.
Focus on fit and fabric here. A streamlined silhouette works best, and mocknecks layer easily under vests or lightweight jackets. Keep graphics quiet and let simplicity carry the look.
