Just a few weeks before this Summer’s Open at glorious Royal Portrush, I headed over to Northern Ireland with Jeremy Ellwood to play a mixture of the brilliant courses – inland and links – on offer in the surrounding area. This combination of something old and something new turned out to be an absolute treat!
Castlerock
A view over the closing hole on the Mussenden Course with the par-4 opening hole to the right
(Image credit: Kevin Murray)
The Causeway Coast is blessed withs two absolute giants, Royal Portrush and Portstewart. The former is a global superstar, while the latter continues to improve year on year. Not a million miles behind them and in the Golf Monthly Next 100, the Mussenden Course at Castlerock is a fabulous links which I had first played back in 1996. I remember liking it greatly, but surprisingly little of the detail had remained in my shrinking memory bank. Happily, shepherded around by caddy-master Gordon, it surpassed my expectations and is clearly a first-class links in every way.
Looking down on the loop from the tenth to the thirteenth at Castlerock
(Image credit: Kevin Murray)
The course dates back well over a century and was designed by Ben Sayers and then Harry Colt. More recent changes were made by Martin Hawtree, and it has hosted many important tournaments, professional and amateur. It opens with two left-to-right doglegs that work you round towards the railway line, before it really takes off following the birdie-able… yes, amazingly, we both did… par-5 3rd. From here on you have dunes, burns and the prevailing wind combining to create a thrilling challenge that is endlessly enjoyable.
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The fun carries on right through to the closing hole with a drive through a gap in the dunes and then up to a lovely green site below the spacious clubhouse. I loved every minute, and somehow kept the same ball all the way despite the capricious breeze and my even more impulsive swing. I certainly won’t leave it another 29 years before playing again. Then in my 90s, even if I am lucky enough to make it that far, I am not sure I would make it all the way round!
The par-3 second hole at Bushfoot is an absolute beauty that looks and plays quite differently from its two tees
(Image credit: Rob Smith)
Following a modest intake of black liquid for lunch, we headed east through sweet Coleraine and past The Open stands to Bushfoot. Just down the road from the world-famous distillery at Bushmills and right by the Giant’s Causeway, this friendly 9-holer has a terrific course that punches way above its weight. Part links and part parkland, real wow-factor comes at both of the opening holes; a corker of a par 4 to an outrageously small green tucked into the dunes, followed by a sublime par 3 alongside the river with two distinct and very different tees. This pair would not be out of place on a championship links.
The par-4 eighth hole at Bushfoot with the second green in the distance
(Image credit: Rob Smith)
Survive them, and the next three skirt the river, though never too closely, before a lone par 5 leads you back to the linksy ground closer to the welcoming clubhouse where we enjoyed talking to the club’s manager, Ian Blair. Jeremy and I were equally impressed and had time allowed would very happily have headed round again.
Roe Valley Resort
The hotel at Roe Valley Resort with its lovely course running either side
(Image credit: Roe Valley Resort)
For the second part of our stay, we were based about half an hour from Portrush at Roe Valley, a very comfortable, relaxing and friendly golf resort just outside Limavady. Spacious and peaceful rooms are complemented by the lively and relaxed Coach House restaurant where the servings are as tasty as they are generous. My excellent Caesar Salad starter on the first night would have been enough to act as a main course, though obviously I didn’t allow that to happen! A newer restaurant, Fratelli, has recently opened at this family-friendly hotel, while there is a spa, a pool and an adventure playground. The course itself is packed with interesting and different holes, and is beautifully presented despite the fact that big change is afoot.
The green on the par-3 ninth hole at Roe Valley
(Image credit: Roe Valley Resort)
Recently acquired by the Galgorm Collection, there are plans for significant upgrades both on and off the course, so my advice would be to go as soon as possible in order to experience the before, and then return in a year or two to compare with the upgraded after! This was my second visit and I have enjoyed it hugely both times.
Rob at the friendly and delightful Bushfoot Golf Club
(Image credit: Jeremy Ellwood)
Following several visits over many years, I can heartily recommend the Causeway Coast and Glens as an excellent golfing destination. It will also be fascinating to follow the progress of the changes and additions planned by the Galgorm Collection.
