Before I went for a recent iron fitting, I had one big question on my mind—were my 20 year old irons TOO old?

With playing partners now routinely reaching for two clubs less than on par 3s and approach shots I was starting to wonder – was I leaving easy gains on the table by not upgrading?

What I discovered from my fitting experience however changed my understanding of when to replace irons and wedges.

Chapters
0:00 Introduction
0.42 2004 Irons Too Old?
2:54 Too Old vs Too Heavy?
4:55 Forged vs Cast Irons
6:16 Wedges Too Old?

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before I went for a recent iron fitting I had one big question in my mind were my irons too old I’d been using my Muno MP 32s for 20 years but with playing Partners now routinely reaching for two clubs less than me on par 3s and approach shots I was starting to wonder was I leaving easy gains in the table by not upgrading what I discovered from my fitting experience however changed my understanding of when to replace irons and the lessons to be learned so let’s get into it and while we’re at it also take a look at what the verdict was in my wedges released back in 2009 welcome back to the channel everybody and in this video our golfing focus is on what my recent iron fitting experience showed me about telling whether your IRS are too old and worn out and need replacing there which means when I went into my fitting I was pretty sure that my irons were outdated having been released by Muno the way back in 2004 but it turns out I was wrong or kind of wrong so here’s what the overall results were firstly my mp32 still performed as well as comparable modern blade irons but the shafts were way too heavy and after testing different shafts I switched from very heavy 130 G shafts to ones almost 20 G lighter and the result of this change I not only got to keep my trusty old eye irons which I love hitting but gained an average of 6 yards per club with 1 mph less Club speed so my irons weren’t too old but they were too heavy for me and therefore required a lot of work to get the best results on a consistent basis so the truth is irons don’t really expire just because they’re old because here’s the thing about modern golf clubs they are built to last a long time and the science backs this up take titanium for example Le a key material that is combined with a very strong and thin Steel in a lot of irons it has a halflife of around 60 years which in practice means your clubs aren’t going to suddenly expire or lose their engineer performance characteristics just because they’ve been in your bag for a few years there are also examples of some of the best players in the world continuing to use old irons former US Open Champion Matt Fitzpatrick for example recently switched back to his 2013 ping s55 IRS after testing the latest titless t00 and pink blueprint models for a few months last year and the simple reason for this was that he felt most comfortable with them and wasn’t getting any meaningful performance and benefits from the newer irons so if you’re wondering whether your irons are too old the real question isn’t their age it’s whether they still perform for you better than any alternatives available and in my own case the reason my old irons weren’t performing was because of their weight which matters far more than than I realized back when I bought them 20 years ago Club Fitters at the time followed a simple philosophy heavier shafts gave players more control so if you had reasonable Club speed you were automatically fitted with heavy stiff shafts as they were essentially the only options available fast forward to today however and the Golf Tech landscape has completely changed with countless weight combinations and offer to match your evolving game and physical capabilities and when my recent iron fitting allowed me to take advantage of these options and test various lighter shafts I was able to get more consistent results and extra Distance by dropping to a much lighter shaft also no comparable modern blade that we tried during the session was giving me such an outstanding Improvement in performance that it was a no-brainer to switch to them but here’s what really surprised me when it came to the topic of weight where the weight sits in the club head can be just as important as the overall weight of the club some newer irons we tested with way more Tech in the club head compared to my old 20-year-old irons and which in theory should therefore have given me more ball speed and distance actually produced poor results overall and that was because some irons position weight lower in the club head to help launch the ball higher but because my strike pattern is naturally higher up in the face it meant I was striking the ball in the newer irons in an area with less Mass behind it as a result the ball flight and spin rate was higher with the new irons and my old MP 32s actually produced better results for my swing because their weight distribution was higher up closer to where I naturally hit the ball this was a big eye opener as if I had just gone out and bought a new set without testing assuming yours was better I would have ended up with irons that actually performed worse for my game while as we’ve already seen irons don’t really expire one thing that does make a difference when you’re looking at whether your irons are too old is whether they’re forged or cast irons forged irons are made from softer steel and can be bent or adjusted more easily they are therefore more prone to Loft and lie changes over time especially if you hit a lot of balls off practice mats if you forged irons therefore you need to be checking the lies and Lofts every couple of years especially if you play frequently cast iron by comparison are more durable and don’t change as much over time they are therefore harder to adjust but built to last longer without losing shape in my own case as an example since my mp 32s are forged my fits are found in my three iron and four iron had nearly the same Loft from years of wear so they were flying essentially the same distance and what are some other signs to look out for that may signal to is time to get your IRS looked at and potentially replaced your iron distances maybe inconsistent you’re struggling to hit the center of the face consistently your shots are flying lower than usual you feel like you have to swing extra hard to get results or certain irons perform much better than others if you’re noticing any of these it doesn’t necessarily mean you need brand new irons but it might be time for a fitting or a lesson to check out if your irons still suit you one part of your bag that does wear out faster than all your other clubs though your wedges wedges are the most versatile clubs in anyone’s golf bag and are therefore the most used and often in conditions that mean they they can need replacing faster than the other clubs when wedges wear out it’s also not always obvious to the naked eye a key sign of wear however is when the top edge of the groove begins to round off once this happens the groove can no longer effectively cut through to the back of the ball leading to reduce Spin and control and this becomes particularly noticeable in two specific situations firstly half wedge or other partial wedge shots and secondly wet conditions where moisture management is crucial the importance of sharp grooves also increases as Club speed decreases this means your highest lofted wedges used for those delicate shots around the green may need looked at before your gap wedge that you primarily use for full shots testing forther shows worn wedges can lose up to 2,000 RPMs of Spin and even more telling fresh GRS produce less than half the roll out distance compared to wedges that have seen 100 to 125 rounds of use to put this in perspective for the average golfer 125 rounds typically equ equals about 3 years of play for someone getting out 35 to 40 times per year that’s a decent lifespan but it means while your irons may not be too old there’s a higher probability if your wedges were as old as mine were and released all the way back in 2009 they may be passed their best before date so that’s it for this video If you enjoyed it please do hit that like button and join us our next video where we discuss what happened when I took my 15-year-old driver to get checked out and as ever and most importantly we hope you’re enjoying your golf

21 Comments

  1. Thanks for this video. I’m still playing my Titleist 735cm that I bought new in 2010 or so. I’ve been testing new irons, but haven’t found “the ones” yet. I bought a used set of Mizuno JPX 923 pro to try. They were cool and all, but I didn’t quite get along with them in terms of their looks, feel. I returned them. I’ll keep on with the 735s. I recently had the lofts and lie checked. I probably need new wedges, though.

  2. Still using my Lynx Masters I bought in 1979. Have new woods and wedges tho. Putter varies.

  3. I've been playing Wilson Staff FG Tours from 2009 (bought in 2010 when i was 20)…this is the very same issue I've had this past year. I contacted GolfTec to see if they refit old clubs…they told me "once fit nothing really changes". Hard to believe when i was 21 when fit and im now 34. I wanted refit and those morons clearly wanted to sell me something. I'll be trying to get refit. But the "players distance" category of club is very intriguing. I just don't know if i wanna change for the sake when I enjoy a well struck forged cavity.

  4. I have MP32 irons as well and love them. Oddly I just switched shafts too but went the other way from 95 to 130 grams. Thanks for the video feels good to know if can keep my MP32s for pretty much forever

  5. My clubs from ‘86 aren’t too old, I am. Can still hit them great, just not a long. Although I do have several sets that are newer, but nothing feels like the old muscleback forged blades.

  6. Good review – I go even further back with my Mizuno TP-18's (pro-blades only available in the UK) acquired in 1992 – I had them re-chromed back in the oughts and I just recently had all the lofts and lie angles reset back to factory setting since they had considerably changed over the 33-yrs I've played with them. Now that I'm in my 60's my swing speed has undoubtedly slowed which makes hitting longer irons difficult (I ditched the 2 iron years ago and the 3-iron last year with much regret), but distances with P-6 iron have remained pretty consistent. And then ….. I ditched them this winter for a set of JPX to play in the cold ….. and now I don't want to go back – Booooo!!! They are so much lighter and easier to hit, although they still feel like swinging a stick of rhubarb by comparison!

  7. I have a set of MP-60's and the longest club 4 is practically unusable for me, and sees action in some par-3 tee shots only. Also 5r if there's awkward lie I rather use 5 hybrid instead. So yes the old irons work ok but long end could be definitely more forgiving.

  8. With irons, especially better player irons, there isn't a lot of new tech so older models are ok. However, Matt Fitz with his old Pings is refreshing the heads every few years, they are not the exact same club he had for 15 years.

  9. Great insights. BUT rule #1. If someone doesn't even hit the ball properly, they don't need new clubs!! For me, it's super amusing to many folks on the range or Topgolf talking about how different clubs work well for them. Then you see them hitting the balls all over the place with 100% arms power only!! For a round, I think 98% of the good score comes from the player and 2% from the equipment.

  10. Did you see any benefit from more “forgiving” clubs in the longer irons? I have blades and am pretty happy. Around the 5 or 6 iron I feel like mishits are punished quite a bit more. I believe loft is forgiveness, which is why no wedges really need “tech”. Just not sure how far through the set that remained true. I’m also very skeptical any of the thin faced irons are actually “hotter” since the USGA and R&A regulate that.

  11. Yes a wonderful video. This is why I still play the titleist ap2 714. A little bigger then the t100 with a tad more offset. But functionally just as good with traditional lofts which I like. Also went a little lighter with modus 120 (115 grams) vs dynamic gold

  12. Thanks for the reply and your in depth research! Had a set previously and wore them out. Recently repurchased a mint set. There seems to be a race for the thinnest topline and less offset. I grew up with mp 33's etc. Today's modern performance clubs have gone too far in my opinion (and I am a former D1 player) in regards to topline, size, offset. Also slightly thicker toplne adds to feel, which is why ap2 714 and 718 are softer then present t100

  13. So my irons, 1981 Wilson 1200LT's, had over 130 rounds a year the first 3 yrs of play (summer breaks before 10th, 11th, and 12th grades) where I would play 2-3 rounds a day every day of the week. Plus matches, practices and rounds as a freshman thru senior year outside of the grind. Then a half dozen or less rounds for 15 yrs, until I taught my son-in-law to play, then a round a week plus practice range time for summers for 6 or 8 yrs. I did get new clubs in '06, but ditched them as soon as the USGA issued it's (still ridiculous) "groove rule"; and went back to the 1200's, before 2010 but almost quit playing. Overall I'd estimate I'm at about 1000 rounds; but … Now I'm looking at new clubs again; and wanting to get back to "competitive golf" … hmmm … I do see a difference in all the data I've collected not just distance – but distribution. It doesn't help I've lost several (ok like 4 to 8) Mph of club speed in driver over the last year, being out of shape. but the question is – are my irons worn out or is the technology better …

  14. Been out of the game for a while ..retired now looking to get back in the game ,
    subscribed to your channel after watching this one video thank you🫵💯👍

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