We make golf clubs out of silicon and manganese bronze and test them on the range using a launch monitor before trying them on the course.

40 Comments

  1. Like how white hot does a putter insert you can do a groove insert on a forged iron, ruby, saffire, emerald, cubic zirconia, etc. test sound, feel, durability, distance, spin. Seems like an awesome experiment. Would be aesthetically insane too, might even be the future of golf.

  2. make a face from a diamond grinder. Not sure how you'll do it but would be interesting.

  3. Regarding the voids: the voids seem to be associate with the area with the most bulk. Though the sprue functions nicely as a reservoir to pull from as the metal shrinks and cools, if there is too great an angle between the sprue stem and the body of the club (and if the mass/volume of the sprue and the mass/volume of the sprue are similar) you have in essence a tug of war for metal flow between the sprue and the club where the sprue reservoir wins…..leaving a void to the loser reservoir. Any trapped gases with therefore expand leaving a void….despite the vacuum pull.

  4. Weight distribution and groove design for spin. I think the big brands put a lot into where the weight on the clubhead is and also the subtle groove design. Great to watch excited to see the progression!

  5. You probably get that nasty porosity due to turbulence at the gate because the sprue is directly on the part. Try having a horizontal runner feeding into your club head instead of pouring directly into it.

  6. IIRC you can have shrinkage around the sprue because it can act like a large heatsink that pulls heat from the part and shrinks in that area of the connection. Try extending the connection of the sprue off the part a little more with like a pad or making the sprue connection thicker.

    I'm no casting expert but that is what I remember reading about and matches my experience doing some jewelry sand casting with gold and silver. I'm thinking of stepping up to investment casting soon my self 🙂

  7. Steel worker here! Are you preheating your mold? That will allow you to have less super heat prior to your pour. The other thing we use is oscillation, or in your case vibration, coupled with mold powder or a lubricant. Normally this is some type of sand that melts and turns into essentially an oil.

  8. My favorite material I have a club made from is an amorphous solid or Liquid metal. Metallic glass whatever. That could be your grail pour 😂

  9. Metalergy, this kind of curiosity should be admired good job!
    When you dial it in you could brand your own clubs.

  10. well based on shrinkage of the club it from the mold process and seeing the lower spin rates it sounds like the grooves potentially shrunk making them not as deep. if the grooves arent the right depth and cut then you would see drastically lower spin which rates which you guys did observe. maybe for the next cast or even for the current one you have you need to go in and cut the grooves deeper post mold. because if the entire club was getting shrinkage it would make a lot of sense that the grooves arent the proper depth youre looking for. (i am no a club builder i am just an avid low handicap golfer)

  11. The difference on spin are your swing not on the head, check loft, lie and swing weight of each before coming to conclusions. Anything from 10 to 4 gr discrepancy you could correct with lead tape.

  12. Love this series. If yall got a pro like BD to hit these irons I would be very invested. that could be a gold mine for yall. And I’m sure Bryson would love it cause it involves a sort of science.

  13. Please be aware, "silicone" is the rubber you are pouring wax into at the beginning of your process, and it is very different (and pronounced differently) than "silicon" – the element in the alloy you used in the one club head.

  14. I find it hilarious you can find artisanal craft channels that drag out this project for months lol and a golf channel is like hey we can do this no problem

  15. I love this kind of stuff. I love metalergy. Given the knowledge I have with casting and watching your video. I am thinking the perosity is coming from the angle at which you are casting the iron. The air is unable to run up the wall and out the vents. It's getting trapped. I recommend playing with the angle. I would stand the blade up on the side of the toe so both the face and back are vertical and the hozzle is horizontal. Then rotate the head so the hozzle is at a bit of an angle vertical with keeping the face and back side vertical as well. I hope you understand a little of what I am trying to explain. Lol it's hard thru text

  16. This is a nuts idea but can you do on but adding a little bit of a buldge around the sweet spot of a standard club. Drivers dont have a flat face so I wonder how an iron would fair

  17. What about Nordic gold? Could be interesting. Your first video was not actual Nordic gold without the tin. Tin adds to the color as well as adds protection from corrosion.

  18. Try casting them flipped, I've found that the thicker parts on top cast better. I've never done clubs but it's the same principle

  19. The thicker a casting, or the more mass of the metal, you get more "shrinkage" in the final product. I don't really cast much but I follow some guys that do. They explain how when you have something that's thicker or more mass (compared to other parts of the casting) you'll get more shrinkage or constricting. Windy Hill Foundry has a good channel on YouTube to learn about the process, he explains the shrinking quite a bit and how to combat it. If I remember right, putting a sprew right where the voids are occurring can help.

  20. I love watching this. My grandpa owned his own foundry when I was growing up and he got sick and passed before I was old enough to learn the process. Glad to see people are still carrying on a legacy!

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