Seth Moniz, um dos principais nomes da nova geração havaiana no CT. Criado em uma família de surfistas lendários, com o pai Tony Moniz e a irmã Kelia Moniz, bicampeã mundial de longboard, Seth compartilha com a gente sua trajetória do North Shore ao mundo, as viradas da carreira, a final contra Kelly Slater em Pipe, e como mantém suas raízes havaianas vivas no tour.
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ANFITRIÃO: Rico de Souza – @ricodesouzaoficial
GRAVAÇÃO: AGR Podcast Estúdios – @agrpodcast
DIRETOR AUDIOVISUAL / ROTEIRISTA: Paulo Mendes – @paulomendesfoto
DIRETOR EXECUTIVO: Patrick de Souza
DESIGNER: Caroline novais – @carolnf.design
Aloha. I have a guy from Hawaii. You guys know that I
love Hawaii. Hawaii is my second home. And the father of this guy is my good old friend Tony
Monz. And here we have Seth Moniz. Hey man, mahalo to have you here big time. Thank you
for having me. Appreciate it. Okay. Great to be here. I I don’t have words to tell how much I
love to Hawaii because I was in Hawaii in 72 and um I went for the world championship in California
and come back and live in um Sunset Beach in front of Camland. Okay. you know me Ian K Mark War Peter
Town one South African so was a crazy good house you know heavy crew right there yeah yeah good
good good times you know and you look sunset sunset my favorite wave so it’s a big pleasure to
have you here talk a little bit about your father yeah um man growing up having you know a dad that
basically did everything I’m doing right now. And um but I never knew he was like such a legend
in surfing. You know, he was just dad to us growing up. He was a guy that worked his ass off
to provide food for us and to provide, you know, home and shelter and u so he’s just kind of
looked at him as dad and you know he was a surf instructor in Wiki Beach, you know, where surfing
started essentially. So it was I grew up in Wy Ki surfing and he would let us go out there and
play in the ocean. Never watched never, you know, I mean he watched us but he just let us have free
range and go for it and he worked all day long. So in the surf school at the surf school yes my dad
was a beach boy down there for you know the last 30 years. So after his you know surfing career he
raised five kids, five of us. So, you know, he had I’m sure back in the day, you know, there wasn’t
it wasn’t surfing was all for the love. I mean, there’s contest and people were making a little
bit of money, but, you know, it wasn’t going to set you up for life. So, yeah, he did that and
it was amazing childhood just being able to surf every day in Hawaii. You know, it’s basically
we have one season in Wiki Ki. There’s waves all year long. So, yeah, dad was a really humble,
supportive father. He never he never really pushed me to be where I’m at right now. He kind of just
let me free free. He was always there were some times I was like I’m surprised he doesn’t like
push me more, you know, or like he was just like, “No, just do what you want to do.” And yeah,
so he never, you know, he never told me, “Wake up early. You got to go surf, you know, he
kind of let us figure it out and let us find out what do you want, what we want, you know, what we
want to do and how hard how bad do we want it.” So one thing about your father that uh he have
the spirit aloha you know your your your father is a humble man friend guide you know like a
a lovely people do you know so I’m very stoked about had a pleasure to to meet him do you know
and now I’m going to talk about the sponsor this is my sponsor sense is h this is good for people
make your father make box good for make triathlon academy when you transpire you know so he you put
to wash the clothes and come comes clean fresh good amount smell and then also have a kibboa
is is to clean the house no they my sponsor so I thank you very much and I have also gurome which
is when we record in Rio we have special Japanese food but here we cannot provide but when you go
real sometime I would be a pleasure to receive. I love I love Japanese food. A pleasure for you
here. Uh a present for you from SA. Oh, thank you. Okay. Yeah. Okay. It’s a mini aloha for you, you
know, like so you it’s light you can take home. You travel with it. Yeah. You remember? Yeah.
Uncle Rico, do you know Rico? Oh, nice. Nice. So, okay. Thank you. Oh my mahalo. Thank you. I also
have here my biography. You want the only one we did over 100 programs for you. I have my special
gift and I put here to my great friends Seth and Tony Mon. My special aloha from Brazil, great
surfers Rico D Suza Sakarama. And I give to you. And I I’m proud because I have old pictures and
I have here let’s see me with Shano Buffalo for Macaha Greg Denoha S Garcia Becca Al Shar.
So for you an honor thank you so much. No, it’s a pleasure because uh in life is great
because uh you travel, you make friends, you you surf the waves, you know, and uh for me, Hawaii is
a very special place, you know, because uh Sunset Beach. Oh, good. This is my hot dog board. That’s
crazy. It’s a 36 foot small bag. 36 foot. 36 foot small bag. Yeah. U we have a six world champs
in a uh in a Guinness book. Um I make a board uh 8 m 27 seconds uh cm then I make a 9 and a
half 10 and a half and I make this one 11 and a half but I didn’t put again too much work you
know and they have another one. The Australians have 38 guys in a wave. I put uh 42, then I put
84, and then 100. All that’s crazy. Yeah. Just a good time, you know. It’s a And think I think you
can you might be able to do that in Wy Ki. Oh, w maybe every day there’s like 60 people in every
wave. Yeah. Yeah, you’re right. I do during the surf contest to give attention for the sponsor
was alive on the TV. So, it was good time. But uh talking about the beginning you know your career
where your father start to serve. My my father where where did he uh my dad he grew up in Klehi
so that’s a small little it’s like ghetto of town you know it’s it’s a town right? Yeah. My dad grew
up in town. It’s kind of it’s a hard place he grew up you know um he lived right next to a prison. He
grew up on, you know, there’s gangs, street gangs, you know, he So, he grew up pretty hardcore um
with the boys right there. Yeah. It was like, it wasn’t necessarily like a surf town. Not at all.
He grew up where there’s streets grew up fighting, street fight, boxer, you know. My grandpa was My
grandpa was a boxing coach in a gym over there. And it was just like a it was a pretty it was a
rugged neighborhood to grow up. and he had three older brothers and a sister and yeah they’re just
it’s definitely a way different yeah way different than how I grew up but all his brothers surfed you
know growing up in Hawaii and he was the youngest so he kind of took after all his older siblings
and surfing was what kind of kept him out of trouble you know you’re out there in the ocean you
can’t get in trouble out there so yeah I think for him growing up and and making it out of there out
of where he live. Very important. Very important, you know, and um and then obviously had a awesome
surf surfing career traveling the world, meeting guys like you. And I meet him in South Africa and
who was at our house and one guy did respect your father. Yeah. And I know your father is a golden
glove, you know, a beautiful boxer, you know, number one and he’s so so good, bro. He could kill
the guy. They say, “Bro, shut up.” He didn’t give a [ __ ] for the guy, you know. So beautiful
attitude, you know. Yeah. I think I think when you kind of grow up in that environment, he
never really felt like he had to prove anything, especially in the surf world. I think he’ll
tell us he never felt he never he was never afraid of surfers, you know, he was more afraid
of guys in his neighborhood. Yeah. So, um yeah, I think that was he was able to just have a solid
head when on his shoulders when he was surfing or whatever. And he he knew he could back himself up.
So he felt like he didn’t have to prove himself to anyone. And what good thing like Tony, he have
a low spirit, do you know what I mean? And he smiled, you know, he always treat everybody
good. And I have a good friend that we travel to France together. He come to Brazil. He have a
sub school too in Wikia. Clyde, you know what I mean? He just passed away. And tomorrow I think
will be the parallel parallel out. So I make a program special. I get goosebumps, you know. It’s
just special for Clyde. Because Clyde is legend, legend, legends, you know, we travel many times
and last year I went visit him and why Manalo to know only when the Hawaiians lived, you know,
was a farm place and have the dogs and we have a a talk, a long talk, bro, you know, as good. In this
year, I call call and uh I talk his telephone and say, “Please let me visit Clyde.” Yeah. Because
I love him. Yeah. I’m in Hawaii. I like to see him. Yeah. And I say, “Cly, it’s not so good,
you know, his wife.” And then I was already in California and I find out he passed away, you
know. And we did we bring some big riders who ride the ed and we bring him here to h we bring
him to Brazil uh for for a special museum of surfing you know and then uh but he’s going to be
in good hands you know because he he put a lot of seats good he always have a the aloha spirit you
know and u and a special guy and he he’s in my You know, Uncle Clyde, I grew up with his
his son. Haha. You know, his son. Yeah. So, I grew up how I grew up like staying at her house,
sleepovers. And I tell the first board of him, I give to him. Do you know I brought from Brazil
the board of my son and I give to him, you know, so because I I feel tied, you know, and he give me
when he come to Brazil at his board. Yeah. Do you know and I have the museum observe but this board
I never put in this position I keep all my because it’s a special up yeah in my my my business place
you know I have you know so it’s so good to to be able to to talk about Hawaii have you here you
know anything you need here man you’re ready you know when I was uh first first time to California
I went to Hawaii you know and people treat is so good you know like this time nobody know Brazil
can be funny for you but the America the Hawai they only know ar buenoares and amazon where is
Brazil because people didn’t study we didn’t have an internet you know and I remember many times
being sunset beach and have papa I didn’t know him good now papa account you know and the brother
they have a old car Like a like a like come on a Volkswagen. No, no. It was like like a pickup
pick up pickup truck pick up and sit there with the Hawai and I go talk I having beers right on
the beach the Hawaiian sometimes you look for them they look like they they mad they tough they don’t
look but when you open your heart broad you know you go talk to them and you you man they treat
you like a nice you know like maha too you know you go rusty bof you go there open your heart.
Many times I go surf makah and D say go Rico go Rico you know really really nice you you feel
home you know like so it’s great this feeling be respect by the Hawaiian yeah I think I think you
said it right there is like especially back then you know they’re a little more hardcore they had
to stand their ground they’re very protective of their home their land their beach and but if you
like like you walked up to them and said hi. You open yourself up to them and then once you’re in,
you know, you’re their brother. They got you for life. For sure. It’s like I think cuz maybe a lot
of Hawaiians I feel like they’re they’re shyish, you know? You know, they kind of they keep to
their small crew, but then like when a guy like you maybe comes in and like feels open, they’re
like, “Oh, yeah.” Like you’re one of us now. um you know they’ll take care of you, feed you and
friends for life 72 you know almost over 53 years you know going to every year I go you know every
year go you know and uh and I love sunset you know this year I went late in the season and the year
before I went late and didn’t catch many waves you know and but this year I caught good you
know got sunset no wind you know sunset no wind is a is a dream because the for me I’m older
you know like when two in maybe more hard to to to ride you know. All right. You live in in
town in town. What’s your favorite wave in town when you Alam Moana? Um I live in town. I live
in the southshore. I’d say the southeast of the island. Kind of close to where you visited Uncle
Clyde. Oh. So, not like in the east in the city, but just like outside on the southeast side.
Good waves there. There’s fun waves. Yeah, there’s a lot of good waves. Um, not all the time,
but you know, they get good. I I grew up surfing Kiwala Basin, which is next to Bulls. Um, kind
of a lot of I would say the best surfers from the last two generations from town like grew up there.
Carissa Moore, Ezekiel Lao. Yeah. Uh my brothers, my sister, a lot of upand cominging kids, they
kind of surf. Kiwal’s just offers it’s like a perfect playground to learn everything, you know.
Little little barrels, errors, turns, backside, front side. It’s kind of got everything. So, it’s
our little training training grounds. Oh, really? That was my home breaking up. Oh, really nice to
know. I love Hawaii. Last year when I went they make a barbecue laana to know all the was the the
world champ of long board the guys from I was the only how guy you know you’re not a holly yeah know
how like but thank you in wiki in front of the just close to Alam Moana you know and so was so
good we have the Hawaiian food I love the Hawaiian food tour you know what I Yeah. And comfortable.
You like Alam Moana? Alamana. Yeah. I grew up surfing all those waves over there. Bulls. Alamo
Bulls. Kaisers. Yeah. You know Kaisers? You’re right. Yeah. In town it’s great. I think like
growing up in town at there’s so many waves that offer a different variety of sections and they’re
not as they’re not as powerful as the Northshore, but you can practice but you can practice on waves
in town like more, you know? It’s just it’s a lot more forgiving. It’s friendly. It’s like it’s
like Bali, you know, softer waves, playful, user friendly, so so beautiful. The blue, the color.
Then you go to the Northshore and it’s heavy and you know up there you just so growing up surfing
town and then making my way to the northshore and learning how to surf heavy bigger waves, pipeline,
sunset, haliva. the guys from town. First time I went there, I went to Peru on a s and I meet all
the Hawaiian guys and it was Harold Holly. Do you know this guy? He’s the priest of the ceremon of
Eddie. Do you know Erica? I have a priest. Other day I meet him. He was the first guy. He used to
ride Mayad, you know. And I went to visit him in 72. I said he took me to Alaman. And I say,
“Rico, I didn’t know anything.” First place is Haliva because it’s a easy weight. Not too
easy. Haliva is heavy. Yeah. But the day weight was okay. I didn’t remember big. Then he took me
to pipelines. Seo, you ran to pipe was a six foot, you know, was a big six, seven foot. But even that
is dangerous, you know, dangerous pipelines. But I fall in love for sunset, you know. Yeah, we live
by Camland and you can see the channel, you know, you look like the this perfect big wall. But no,
look clean because you don’t when you see from front, you have a more heavy. Yeah. But when you
see perspective from the side, it’s all good. You know, I already talk this story here this time to
no leash. Yeah. And we didn’t know anything about s about the current the guys today your friend
go there say go here go there get out here val you teach everything but over there I have a
California board 72 wrong board went out no leash was a 8 10 sets of 12 you know and then and
then was big I was carrying come a set and took my board you know and then oh [ __ ] I’m going to die
here in [ __ ] And my board went Camel, you know, and and then I didn’t know the court and then I
see a board in a in a channel, you know, and and then I say, “Oh, bro, the only way I go is get the
board, you know.” So I get the board and the board belongs to a big Hawaiian guy. She Gary Space, you
know why guy? Yeah. You know, Gary Sp. And I don’t know English. And the guy say, “Fuck, I’m going to
kill you. I’m going to kill you.” Say, “Oh, you’re going to kill, but outside the water be easier.”
You know, it’s Let’s go in first. I go wait first. I didn’t know anything. Then I wait there for
the guy. I say, “Man, very sorry. You know, I was scared my first time here.” And the guy was
so big. They say, “Okay, bro.” And I come to be a good friend of him later. You know, I was humbled
instead just don’t say nothing. I I say, “Bro, I’m very I don’t speak English, but sorry.” And
sorry, sorry, sorry, sorry. And he’s so big. Gary Spears, he was at the time like on a savage, you
know, like who was the was Eric? One guy was from Vietnam. I forgot his name. Eric, he he’s a big
rider. Was he older? He’s older than you. Yeah. Older. Like Jose Angel. Yeah. Like Jose Angel.
Uh this guy went to Vietnam. Oh, he did. This he went to Vietnam. You know, heavy guy. Greg know.
What’s the name of the guy who was a teacher who died? Old Jose Angel was a teacher. Yeah, he was a
teacher too. Jose Angel. And uh this guy ride mad, you know. And so many good memories, you
know, like for Hawaii. What’s your uh pres wave in the Northshore? Pipe. My favorite wave
is pipe. Pipe. Yeah. 100%. I whenever it’s good, I’m out there. Even when it’s bad. It’s Now that
the tour only has pipeline as like the CT event, I kind of can focus on that and just surf out
there. I surf Rockies and Haliva and Sunset still when it’s good. But now that like last
year sunset was the last few years sunset was a CT event. So I put a lot of time out there and
I have to get better at that wave cuz you know I never growing up all I wanted to surf was pipe.
So the last five six years I surf sunset sunset. I had pipe down like it’s okay. I I understand the
wave. So I surf sunset a lot. One time I was you was competiti in a meeting. Your father was there.
Oh, my son’s there. Yeah, your your sister. Your sister’s two wives world champ and longboard now.
Two time world champ longboarder. But by the time she was maybe 20 and then she’s like I’m done.
That’s good enough. She never She never really liked competing. Yeah, compete’s a different
game. It’s a different game. She liked surfing for the fun of it and she did the competing and she
enjoyed it, but I don’t know. She just It’s tough, right? She was she was a really good shortboarder,
too, as well. like amazing, but she just she didn’t surf. She didn’t have that. She didn’t
want to like train and travel and like do you know it’s it’s hard work. It’s work at the end
of the day when you travel and you know you stay on this. My my son surf really good. He he ride
Nazareo big sunset pipeline but he’s like that. You don’t like the the like the the sponsor, the
the the traveling, you know, the competing is a different game, right? You have the free surf, it
still serves a lot, but free surf is more freedom, right? Yeah, for sure. You know, and and when I
come on a on a 70s, 80s, the best place for surf was sunset. Everybody if you go sunset you can be
a world champ but if you don’t ride something good you’re not going to be respect you know. Yeah. Did
you did you heard about this? Yeah of course. I mean of course I think since it was like since it
was like the what do you call it the Super Bowl. Yeah. That was like the big the mecca of surfing.
I think you guys wrote it better. You guys wrote it better than we do now. You watch the clips of
I don’t know. you back in the day maybe the boards are different, you know, like the single fin long
just the lines, you know, the long bottom turns, the fade, the fades, the long big drawn out
turns. I’m a good when when I start to sunset, I always follow the good guys because I wave
difficult to ride, you know. So, I follow the guys who knows because shift so much, you know.
Yeah. And uh still today after served many years still hard you know what I mean it’s for everyone
no matter what every swell is a is different and if you have a good board makes a lot of easel
you know and I have a the Australian was Bruce Raymond Terrap JS Ian KS Mark Warren PT you know
some some good good and the Hawaiians always surf better you know like they They they send Garcia
a connection with the wave. Yeah. And so good, you know. What should be after pipe? Which is a
wave that you like? Like uh I I could just name the three. It’s easy. Pipe, haliva, sunset.
Those like top three. Oh yeah. Yeah. I like they’re in Rocky’s. Rockies is always a fun way
to go. But yeah, I think those three waves for me just do it. It’s Haleiva. Aliva is amazing. Can
be happy. I suffer one time in 72 or 73. I bought a Jeff Hackman board. Yeah. Like um Golden Bridge
was the name. Mito. You probably don’t know those shapers. I know Jeff Hackman. Yes. Yeah, I know
Jeff Hackman, but I don’t know his model. Yeah, I shaped to him some words. You know the Do you
know his book? He have in Gilan he make a book and the the the picture from the middle double
page of my board. Oh yeah, he liked my boards, you know. And then I bought his board and during
the before the final in Hal Eva didn’t have a like today they rest semi-final they say oh 40 meters
can go out you know and I bought the board no jet ski no lifeguard say for the organization can I go
out just catch one wave and I went out to know I didn’t know the current the I lost the board and
Jesus Christ you know like good experience you and was a final ed and um one Australian guide
you know was tough you know so that’s amazing no it’s good memorized you know a point you can get
big there know heavy wave yeah you look there no waves then you oh you go like this when you get
there when the sets come is crazy yeah I’ve never I’ve never really surfed it big though you know
when I never watched I watched my dad do a tow event there when I was young. They used to have a
tow in event. So I watched that. That was pretty cool. And big barrel was like 20 25 feet. Really
big. Talking about the competition now. Which type of train you do? You do some special training
something. Yeah. Yeah. At home I train uh it’s a gym called Itani Athletics and it’s it’s a lot
of training based from Japan. Oh yeah. Oh, yeah. It’s it’s uh it’s actually really I I struggled
with back problems for like a couple years when I was young when I was the year before I qualified.
I I had like this I had a slip disc and a bulge disc in my lower back and I I had pain for like
six months where I just I couldn’t touch my toes. I couldn’t surf. It was like the worst thing ever.
I couldn’t do anything fun. Like I just stay home, rehab. So, I’ve always dealt with that. So, the
last few years I’ve been training with this guy. He’s from Japan. Yeah. Barely speaks English, but
he’s like a master at body. Oh, no. He’s not with me here, but during the offseason when I go home,
he builds a program for me and I take it on the road. And it’s it is which I was scared of was
lift lifting weights, weight training. I was kind of always scared of that cuz of my back, but he
just taught me how to do it correctly, you know, the correct movements. You got to you got to
help because I have the the the the back L2, L3, L4. Yeah, my L5, S1, L4, L5 is like bulging
into my back. So, I still have pain sometimes. So, I have to be really careful. But, yeah, I’d say
it’s just more weight training and functional like functional training. Uh it’s basically I just
want my body to feel good for six months out of the year. You know what I mean? During the season
during the season is like the whole goal because I’ve been hurt throughout the season so many times
where I’ve dealt with injuries. So my getting older I mean you know growing up and learning
more maturing and learning because before I was so reckless surf pipe jump over a 10-footer do stupid
stuff can get hurt easily. get hurt easily. So, the training has just helped me serve better and
maintain a strong body throughout the whole season cuz I’ I’ve been gone from home all year long. You
know, we’ve done I did five events back to back without stopping. You know, I was like boom boom
boom five events. It’s hard. No, it’s hard. So, you have to still train on the road, surfing
every day. Then you’re traveling in between, you know, that I think what messes our bodies up
that people don’t realize is the traveling bit, the the dragging the bags across airports, sitting
in a plane for 25 hours. Airports, airports, you get sick a lot, like all of that, trying to
just stay healthy throughout a years. And when you get out of your routine is worse, right? When
you’re home, you can have your routine. Have your routine, you know, eat, you know, all the right
foods to eat. Now when you travel some places you don’t know don’t eat is good. Don’t eat is good.
It’s hard but yeah I think training has been super important for me. Like I’ I’m on the smaller side
for sure on the tour. Like I think me and Felipe in Ital. So I’ve always weighed around like 145.
That was my weight when I first got on tour. 140 145. And then like the last the last year I put
on like 20 pounds. Oh yeah. 160. But it’s good though. Yeah it’s good. And I did I was kind of
scared of that and then I gained weight and I feel way stronger, way healthier. My back is stable,
you know, just I can maintain strength throughout the year. So people don’t know the back pain
when you have trouble. Can’t do nothing. Can’t do nothing. Can’t tie your shoes, can’t put on your
pants. I think a lot of surfers deal with that at some point in their life. I had this problem a
lot for two. I shape it over 50 years, you know. So with the planer now I don’t I don’t use the
planer many hours but before I stay 10 hours you know now the racks go up so stay up but that and
I get hurt when my father die we move so I pick it up all the old things for the house like heavy you
know and so hurt my we didn’t know as much as now we’re more intelligent you know how start to learn
about your body the body that’s not Good. Don’t look down all day long. Yeah. And um uh when you
travel in Hawaii, which is uh the other islands, you know, Honolulu Bay, beautiful. Honolulu Bay is
amazing. Amazing waves. Like Oahu has great waves, but some of the islands even have better waves.
And some of the islands you can’t really even talk about. Yeah. Kauaii is one of them. Kauaii has
amazing waves. Uncrowded. Yeah. But, you know, you have to kind of go there with the respect of
someone there. You know, you better know someone if you’re going there. Like, even myself from
being from another island, like I’ll hit I’ll message a friend, hey, I’m coming. Yeah. Just cool
kind. Yeah. But I’m friends obviously with a lot of the locals there. So, it’s it’s open arms. I
went to Peru and this time Peru the world champ was Filipe Pomar and Peru invite all the whole
they invite postri Joy Cabel was do you heard about this guy he was from Kawai you know other
guy my good friend Joel Cabel the great surfer he won in in Peru you know and we brought him to
Brazil and we enjoyed you know other guy my good friend you probably know Glen Kukuli Kuk from
Kawai. from Kawaii. Crazy. So, so many amazing surfers from Kawai. My god, the guy he ride for
Brewer, you know. It’s like I call family like pure Hawaiian, you know. My good friend, we went
South Africa together, you know. So many talented surfers from Kawaii that don’t even there’s a lot
of kids I know in Kawaii that best styles, world class surfers, but they don’t leave the island.
They just surf there. They stay there. They have great waves. When when I went to to Maui first
time was a big way mayor the only guy went out was Eddie I don’t know if no know that’s was on
the 70s you know and I went with Philipe Philip on Hikado Pomic when he’s a brother of Philippid you
know and the waves was good you know was in the morning was closing out just for you you know you
know big big you know and so I came late afternoon And I never rode before. Nobody told me none. So
late afternoon was crowd. So everybody was going out was oh good. I’m here. But everybody going
out. So I stay one of the last guys and I didn’t know how to get out. You know it was dark. I have
to and then I get out. I didn’t know the way you know have a way to go climb up the mountain.
I have to climb really to climb know [ __ ] Brazilian climb, you know. Yeah, the goat trail.
Yeah. Now, I’m sure back then was harder. Now there’s, you know, they make trails everywhere.
Oh, yeah. But this time it was a have experience, you know, and have other place to wind with
meals, you know, windmills. Yeah. It’s shallow place. It’s like a local place now. Yeah. Still
like that. Yeah. It’s Maui’s Maui is still pretty localized. It’s bit more mellow than Kawaii.
I used to know Victor Lopez, Jerry brother. Jerry Lopez brother, you know, Jerry’s a great
surfer. Yeah. Yeah. Amazing. I met him in Peru at this time 697. We became good friends, you
know, and uh about a couple years ago, they make a a shaping room on the beach and brought Jerry
and I had a pleasure to shape Jerry Lop’s model, the the love, you know. So on the beach to make a
nice thing, you know, they put some shapers to to do. Who shaped your boards today? I I I rode
to Cororos to Cororo surfboards. Uncle Wade, he shaped my board my whole life. Oh, yeah. Since
I since I was, you know, just pretty much started surfing until I was, you know, my second or
third year on tour. I I was dated with him. And then the last couple years I’ve been riding Sharp
Eyes. Sharp. So, Marcio Zuvie, he’s been shaping my board. My good friend. Yeah. He’s he’s a
legend. He’s really helped me with my boards. Um, yeah. I I’ve been riding in the last two this
is my second year on tour with him so I’m still learning you know learning how to work with the
new shaper and learning the models but I’m feeling solid like amazing boards yeah Marshall good guy
he invited me to go to San Diego know and um I’m also good Yuthi Yuthi he’s here yeah we talking
Tuba do you know Tuba Tuba Tuba is the guy who do sharp ice in Brazil one of the I don’t think I Oh,
no. Actually, I think I messaged him on WhatsApp. Yeah. Yes. Good time. Surfboard grow up so much,
you know. Yeah. Just I have a good story for you. When I was in a world championship in California,
Ocean Beach now and the Hawaiian team was surfing really good and I brought the swallow in 72 on a
72 show and the guys was surfing so much better than everybody with a white tail for Swallow tail
swallow tail guys on the beach cut the square tail just surf you know like good time I don’t know if
you met Mark Liddell yeah buttons you know was a Michael Ho and the winner was Jim Blers Jim Blers
Jim Blers was the champion 72 from where Hawaii oh yeah yeah he was the lifeguard of the sunset tower
okay you know and his father was a lord Briers. Have you heard about Lord Briers? No. His father,
you know, in a I’m learning new stuff today. I’m getting educated. He was the guy who announced the
the boxing, you know, the pro boxing. You know, your your father know will know and have the lar
the voice like special voice. He got goosebumps, man. He was in a war with I think Japan and they
get caught and he jump in the water. They was killing everybody. This is in a book of Hawaii.
No way. They was cutting the guy and he jumped from the water, you know, and then somehow they
pick him up and he drink his uh PP his piss and get survival, you know. And I had a he had a
a brother and a sister who served, you know, good good stories, great stories. I like to learn
stories about Hawaii, you know, the culture of Hawaii. Very interesting. a lot a lot to learn,
you know, and um surfing out this time in Hawaii. What’s your your worst wipeout? Because every
time I go to Hawaii, I have a worst wipe out, you know. Oh, there’s so many. Um sunset, I had
a sunset pretty bad one. I’ve had I’ve had some scary moment cuz sunset I wouldn’t say necessarily
I got my worst wipe out but in the worst position you know where you’re cut inside you get boom long
hold down plus you’re in the impact zone for 10 minutes and you can’t get out you know and that’s
scary and you start getting sucked out back out into the lineup and you lose your board and you’re
swimming and there’s foam and you’re you’re trying to breathe but you’re sucking up the foam and
you’re coughing in the whitewash. That is that is scary. Like that’s that’s more scary than falling
a pipeline 100%. Cuz a pipe you take a big wipe out, you get pushed inside pretty quick. Yeah.
You’re on the beach. If you don’t get hurt, if you don’t get hurt, obviously you get a you smack your
head. Yeah. Like game over. But sunset will test your will test your heart, you know. It’ll test
your heart and your inner grit, your athleticism, being in the impact zone, getting pounded by 10
10footers on the head, and and it’s deep. So, you go deep. You only know when you go go through
this situation, you know. Yeah. You’re never ready until it happens and you’re like, “Ah, well, one
of my favorite is there. I love Jacos.” Jacos, you know Jot? Yeah, you know him, great guy,
humble guy. He’s a little bit old. Was Lopez, Rory, Jackie Dan, and Jack the Kings of Pipeline,
right? You know who who is the kings now from Who’s the best guys? You best guys like I mean you
got to put Jamie, John, Baron, Mamia. I would like to say myself is up there. Um Dennis Pang’s son,
the little kid. Makana Pang is incredible. He’s tiny and he catch he catches all he knows how to
get in a rhythm and he’s got the respect for sure. I mean, Ka Rothman, KA, of course, Eli Olsen, KA
Grace, there’s so there’s a lot. There’s a lot, but I mean, there’s obviously like the top guys
out the back like your John’s, your Jamies, um, Baron, those three guys I’d say are John
John. I love John John. Yeah, John’s I mean, naturally just amazing. Yeah, I I met John
John. You probably saw when he was young. He was probably seven, eight years riding piping and he
have all the the sunscreen sunscreen you know like and today I love the way he serve very very talent
you know the speed he put on the board he’s yeah he’s I think the best surfer in the world yeah I
think he like today he don’t need so much compete you know he I don’t think he really needs to I
think he will come back next year because of the new changes it’s going to end in Hawaii I think
he would like to do that this is like your sister, do you know? Like he’s important, but it’s not
that important. Yeah, he’s so naturally good and he won two world titles. He’s raising a kid now.
So, I’m sure I’m sure he’s pretty happy where he’s at. But he’ll probably get hungry offse, you know,
he’s taking a year off and watching all of us surf and he’s going to watch someone lift up the
world title this year. And what I like about him, he ride two foot waves and ride the win. I
know. Yeah. you know, like he he’s the best surfer from two foot to and he also he have
the speed he put on the board where he goes in a in a part of the wave and the his line his
Yeah, his lines are different. His boards are No one can surf his boards, you know? Yeah. Who
shapes for him? Pisel. John Pisel. Yeah. So, his boards are I think he’s he’s super switched
on and really smart with his equipment. Yeah. I heard he’s I heard he can basically shape a board
like but I think he’s just I think he’s put in a lot of time with the surfboards and I think
growing up on the Northshore and having that in your backyard and obviously you had to put in the
work and learning just how to surf these big openf face waves and yeah he does he draws the craziest
lines and he’s riding small boards on what I like about him beside his style is his lifestyle. He
like to sail. He like to to do a lot of sports on the ocean, do you know? And I have a friend
who sponsor here the the energy drink, you know, like empty. Yeah, I think. Yeah. John is sponsor.
He’s a waterman, you know. He’s spends his time in the ocean foiling, sailing. You know, Dennis Pang?
Yeah. I call him Pingpang. Pingpang. Yeah. Great surfer. He ride by mad, you know. And uh we went
traveling many ways. He shaped to me with me you know he teached me a lot. I’ll sh you know who
crazy crazy. Yeah. Yeah. Big heart. Yeah. Bunch of legends. You guys paved the way for us, you
know. Yeah. My dad My dad likes to say he’s like we were the test dummies for you guys, you know.
Do you understand? Test. He’s like we are the test dummies. Just you know the experiments. You
guys experimented a lot. And when you travel uh to Australia, what’s your favorite wave there? Um
I love Wesaws. The rawness of Western Australia, it kind of resembles Mar River. I mean the box,
North Point. The box he never served the box. Yeah, it’s like heavy waves just like Hawaii, you
know? I like that. And then if not Snapper Rocks, Kira, those waves are really nice. Yeah. Kangat
longboard. Good. Good wave, huh? Good wave. Yeah. And um tell me something. When you ride the big
wave, ride sometimes uh why Maya? Yeah. Yeah. You was big board over there. Yeah. I haven’t surfed
ya a ton. I served Jaws. I served Jaws a couple times. I had a moment in my like I was 18. I
went to Jaws. I actually got surprised to go to Jaws. Like surprise. I didn’t know I was going
and Shane Dorian came to the Bibong house with a board for me and it was the morning of the Eddie
Iika. Oh [ __ ] So the Eddie just got called off and he came with the board and they’re filming
it. This magazine was filming it. Came in and surprised me. He’s like, “Hey Seth, here’s this
surfboard and it had the same colors that my dad used to have on his YMA boards and I thought he
was just giving me my dad’s board.” I was like, “Oh, it’s like a replica.” So I was confused on
what was happening. He’s like here’s a board for you and second surprise is we’re going to
Jaws right now. You’re going to He’s like, “You’re going to Jaws in an hour, so go upstairs,
pack your bags, and let’s go.” And I was like, “What? Like is that even illegal? I don’t really
want to go to Jaws.” Well, it’s a good experience. I ended up I ended up going and yeah, it
was amazing experience. Um I had to No, no, I just I just paddled. Paddle, bro. So I just
paddled. I had really I had amazing waves. I felt I was scared going out and then I got in the
lineup. I got, you know, it just took me a little bit of time. I got really comfortable and I got
some bombs. I got I got a barrel. Oh. The second day I surfed, I got a big barrel, like biggest
barrel steel I’ve ever had on a 96 just bottom turning on this wave. Thinking I’ve never been on
a wave that big that’s barreling. And I thought the lip was going to land on my head, but I just
made it under the lip and I got inside and I like went too high and I came back down and I pearled
and fell. But after that, I got really inspired to surf big waves and kind of do that. But then, you
know, qualified for tour the next couple years, and it’s kind of hard to do all that, but
I got invited to the Eddie two years ago, so I was Yeah, I was I was excited about that.
And then last year I didn’t get invited. So I think just got to put in some time over there and
you know. All right. It’s a it’s a challenge when you surf all the time you feel more comfortable.
But when you’re on a tour riding competing surfing you you don’t dedicate as much as you would
like. It’s hard. It’s hard to dedicate that time because you don’t want to get hurt. All these
things you know you might be traveling somewhere when the waves are big trying to try boards. For
instance, I’m on a new shaper. I’m trying to try boards on high performance waves. So you your your
surf is very you you sub tubes very well and you have a progressive surf with a a beautiful turn a
turns you know it’s easy to get hurt no in a tour you know and nobody wants to get hurt if you get
hurt you lose the the the the ear right you get hurt one time yeah I did yo yo I did my MCL lot I
did my MCL two three years ago and Then I did my patella knee in like halfway through the year. So
there’s been years where I had to skip like three events or there’s been years I’ve had injuries
and just surf through it and tried my best. And I think a lot of us there’s probably 60% of the tour
probably has ongoing injuries that’s bothering them. But I think that’s just that’s just the
nature of being an athlete. You have to learn how to like push through that and like do it correctly
and be smart about it, safe about it. But like it’s it’s pretty rare when you feel 100% healthy.
Like when I feel that way, I’m like, “Fuck, I’m so If the back’s not giving you trouble, that’s good
enough, right?” Yeah. Yeah. So, I think you just learn learn like Baron Mia, I’m staying with him.
We’re actually in a heat together tomorrow and he’s he’s got he tore his MCL at the last event.
He’s got like a small grade two tear, but still like that’s, you know, it’s hurting, but he just
he’s learning how to surf through that. How’s when you compete with friends, you know, it’s different
when you compete? I mean, we understand it’s the nature of our job and sometimes we travel together
and we might end up being in a heat together and it’s all good. We’re friends on the beach, but
when we go out there, we’re going to do everyone wants to do the best. Yeah. We’re professional and
do we surf and we do our best to make the heat no matter what and then after it it’s all good. Yeah.
You know, sometimes there’s little you get in, you know, confrontations in a heat, but I think
most of the tour we’re all friends and we know how to just talk things out or let things go. I don’t
think there’s really been any like it’s probably not like how it was back in the day, you know?
Yeah. Guys getting slapped or, you know, fighting on the beach. Um, yeah. And there’s also a lot
we can lose, you know, sponsorships, you know, we don’t want to be on Instagram punching someone.
No need. And did you travel to Indonesia, Bali, and Manta? Yeah. Yeah, I’ve done I’ve done a bit
of I spent a month there last year. Yeah. After um the offseason going there. Got good. Good. Yeah.
I always get amazing waves. What What’s You like Lance’s left? I like I like Lance’s right. I
haven’t got lenses left. Good. Um, green bush. Green bush. Amazing waves. Good feel like a little
pipe. Huh? It’s a little pipe, but it’s still heavy. Shallow. Thicker. Thick. Shallow. Yeah.
And the other place who is a shallow two lens is left in a in a final of the waves. It’s when
you ending the wave very shallow. No, I haven’t surfed. I surf lenses left maybe like this big. So
I was like difficult. Yeah. I wasn’t It was just a It was a day where the waves were small and I was
there with my dad. Yeah. And my whole my dad, all my brothers and my sister was there in the mentor
on a different boat. But we all actually met at Lance’s left. Oh, yeah. One morning she messaged
us. Somehow we had Wi-Fi and she said, “Oh, we’re in a lens left.” And we’re nearby, so we met
her there. I caught Lance’s left really good. you know, was the the best wave I had was a a good
eight foot with a sets of 10, but was very easy, you know, like instead of be scary, do you know
what I mean? Was the sets come the same place, do you know what I mean? The wind was light, you
know, two, three guys in the water. So, it was a a good time. Oh, unreal. You know what about the the
Hawaiian connection as in the culture the what you very different you know for all over the world
every country have your your culture but how I have a do you know you guys keep and are proud
for your culture you know yeah I think growing up you know I think it’s definitely different
than I don’t see myself as like an American I might get people might not like that from in the
US like but you know I I think of myself as a Hawaiian. I’m not American, but I’m Hawaiian. So,
I’m super proud to be that to be on tour and and um spread that that culture, that awareness.
And it’s not that I need to go around and tell people what Hawaiians are like, but if you know,
if you come to my home and your friend, you come, you know, we’ll treat you right. And I learned
through my uncles and my dad like what it is to be a Hawaiian. And it’s not I think just learning
growing up in Hawaii. I grew up I grew up surfing but surfing wasn’t like the main thing. It wasn’t
like my top priority to be a pro surfer. I never really like thought I was going to be on tour
when I was young. I kind of I watched all the contests and videos, but I I never in my head
because we learned surfing, fishing, diving. We learned all these like waterman things, you know.
We rode canoes. you you you did paddle board too. Paddle boarding. It was kind of just like being
a waterman in Hawaii and um I think that was it’s growing up in Hawaii is such an amazing childhood
cuz you spend most of your time in the ocean, you know, at the beach kind of figuring it out for
yourself. You know, I never had a coach telling me how to surf. My dad never told me how to surf.
He never really like you have to use your arms like this or technique tips. It was all just like
a just go surf, enjoy, right? Enjoy it. Michael is like always tell Michael hold you know have his
son you know he always have main thing is have fun enjoy it you know if you come a good results
and good money great you know. Yeah. So yeah, I think it’s important because if you’re hating
it on this tour, if you’re not having fun, then it’s hard to travel away from your family
for seven months out of the year when you’re doing something you’re not having fun, you know? So it’s
it was always an important thing for my dad. He told us just to have just have fun. Just have fun,
whatever. He didn’t really care about results. And obviously now it’s in my hands. I care
about result, you know, I want to do good. So, but having fun knowing that in my core of like
why I surf, you know, I want to have fun. There’s times where I if I’m not having fun, I won’t surf.
Like I won’t surf for a week. I won’t surf for two weeks. If I’m not like really enjoying it, I’ll
go do other things in the ocean. You you do of your your heart feel it, right? Yeah. I I went
to Hawaii with Dennis Bank and they I brought one board paddle board, you know. So, I love to go
inside like Hawaiians do. I go to the islands by myself. I go long paddled, you know. Yeah. Yeah.
So, I enjoy and keep in shape. Great shape. And the skinny guys are the good guys, right? When
the guy too strong, too. You can’t have too much muscle cramp up. All right. So, I want to thank
you very much. And the last question say, what’s the aloha spirit? Because my program podcast is
Aloha podcast. So this was came a name exactly for me because I have the aloh spirit. What’s mean
aloha for you? Yeah I mean thanks for having me on first and foremost. Um the lowa spirit to me and
like my family I think is just because there’s two there I think there’s it’s a double-edged
sword because there’s you can give if you give too much sometimes and people take advantage of
you know so I think it’s just being yourself. Sorry, should I wait? I think yeah, having
the lowest spirit is being yourself. Like I have open arms to all my friends from all
of all over the world. I show them when they come my home. I’m super welcoming. Growing up,
my parents always had they always had these an open door policy. You know, kids would come in
from all over the world. There was always food on the table. There was always something to eat.
There was always a bed they could sleep over. And I think that was like it might be different for
everybody else, but I felt like how we grew up, how I watched my parents, yes, how them operate
kind of, you know, it it gets put into us as kids. And so I think just like being open with people,
giving the little kid their time a day, you know, having helping the little kid out, you know. I
don’t want Yeah. like never being too cool or too, you know, popular or never being too much
for someone that maybe is a fan or just someone that’s trying to paddle out to a
break. They don’t know what they’re doing, for instance. You could call them a cook or you
could help them out, tell them, hey, you know, it’s not safe. Watch out. But like friendly, it’s
okay. You can enjoy the ocean, too. The ocean is for everybody, you know. It’s not just for the
pros or what the locals. It is for everyone, but maybe just teaching people teaching people before
yelling, you know, like Yeah, cuz my brothers, they they are surf instructors in Hawaii. Like
my and they deal with tourists all the time. So, it’s I think for them, they’re like the first
line of defense for like how how Hawaiians act in the water. So I think them just being able
to like teach people instead of yelling and that person’s going to know and understand like
oh okay they get it now they they get respect they get respect and then you know they’re going
to respect you and if they don’t then they get slapped. Yeah. I think Yeah. I think that’s it.
Just Yeah. I don’t know. I think if first thing when go to Hawaii you got to respect the Hawaiian
people. go to the water, let them catch the wave, then one wave come to you, then you come to
be friends, you know, and and have a good time. Thank you very much. My mahalo and good
luck for the contest, good competition. Thank you for the sponsor, for Kibboa, for Sans,
for my team here. Aloha. Take care. Mahalo.
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