How to GET A GOLF COURSE LAWN – [COMPLETE GUIDE]

How to GET A GOLF COURSE LAWN – [COMPLETE GUIDE]

– If you want your lawn to look like this, you clicked on the right video. Coming up, I cover all the steps I followed to create my golf course lawn. Let’s get to it. All right, YouTube. This is the blueprint, all the steps I followed to create this over the course of the past 2 1/2 years. When I first moved into this place, we first moved in here 2 1/2 years ago. The lawn didn’t look anything like this. I wish I had some pictures of it. Actually, if you go look
at some of my old videos, you can see. But we’re gonna go over
all the steps that it took to transform the lawn
from what it looked like into what it looks like now. The grass you’re looking at is Bermuda. It’s Tifway 419, with some
Princess 77 sprinkled in. Anywhere you see like little darker spots, that’s Princess 77 that I’m
trying to get to take over. I guess we’ll see if I’m successful. Two years ago, this lawn looked about like
any other Bermuda grass lawn. The first step in making your lawn look like a golf course
fairway is it has to be level much like a golf course fairway is, right? Most lawns regardless of how
good a job the builder does. Putting the sod down, there’s
gonna be some inconsistencies, there’s gonna be some bumps, and you’re just never gonna
be able to get rid of that without doing what’s called top dressing. Top dressing is the
process of applying a sand and organic mix to the surface that helps to smooth
out all the undulations and uneven spots in the lawn, and get you this relatively smooth surface for the grass to grow on, for you to cut. It gives you a good
foundation to start with. I’ve top dressed this lawn twice. Two years ago, I did it. And then last year, one
more time I top dressed it. When you top dress a lawn, it’s gonna look really bad
for three weeks, four weeks, depending on how much rain
and how much heat you get. But Bermuda recovers very quickly. And as long as you keep water
on it, it’s gonna come back. Bermuda is incredibly difficult to kill. So don’t be afraid if
the lawn looks horrible after you’ve top dressed it. As far as how you can do
that, you can do it yourself, or you can do what I did and get a service that will come out and
do all this for you. They’ll top dress it for you. Once the lawn is top dressed, there are three major
things you have to focus on, to make your lawn look like this, and to maintain at this level. And those are your fertilizers, your pest control, your fungicides. And then most importantly,
the mower you use. I can’t stress enough that
80% of what you see here is the lawnmower. It’s 80% of what you see. 20% is all the other things
we’re about to cover. For fertilization, I use a combination of two fertilizers. I mainly use Milorganite, which is a completely organic
for a slow-release fertilizer. And then recently I’ve
also started incorporating this fertilizer from Lebanon
Turf, called ProScape. This is also a slow-release, or a release-over-time fertilizer, but it comes on a lot faster
than Milorganite does. Milorganite takes about
two weeks to begin working, at least that I found,
ProScape, when tumbled, had me put it down about three days later, you’re gonna start seeing results. As far as spreader
settings, the Milorganite, I put this down pretty heavy, I put it down heavier than bag rate. I set my… If you have a Scotts
spreader, I set mine to 10. Whereas I think the
bag calls for 4, 4 1/2, something like that. 10 to 12 was where I normally run mine. It takes about nine
bags and either 10 bags to do the entire backyard,
the side and the front lawn. So it takes a lot more of this. Again, I set my setting to 10 and it takes about nine bags
to do about 12,000 square feet. In comparison, you have
the Lebanon ProScape, which is a commercial grade fertilizer. They use it on golf courses quite a bit. And this covers on Bermuda
about 14 to 15,000 square feet. This, you do want to put down a bag rate, do not put this down any heavier than what they specify in the
bag for a Scotts spreader. I run it at 4 1/2 and that
seems to work out fine. I do my entire lawn and I have just a little
bit of the bag left by running this at 4 1/2. To recap, the Milorganite, is at 10, again, that’s much higher than bag rate. And then the ProScape I run at bag rate, which for Scotts spreader is 4 1/2. And as a matter of fact, if you don’t put it down at bag rate, like I had an issue with my
Broadcaster spreader braking. And you can see here, that’s what happens. I had a spill of fertilizer and that’s what happens to the grass whenever you have too much down. So don’t take Milorganite route, follow the instructions and
put it down at bag rate. Again, for a Scotts spreader,
you’re looking at 4, 4 1/2. That’s going to be plenty fine. You’re gonna get great results with it. The other area that you have to consider when you’re trying to
keep the lawn looking nice is fungicides and insects. If you notice I don’t have any anthills, there’s also a no brown
spot, no dollar spot, none of that stuff. None
of that fungus on the lawn. There’s a couple ways
you can go about this. Recently, I’ve switched to
this product by Syngenta, it’s called Caravan-G, I’m getting here so you
guys can actually see that. It’s called Caravan-G, this is a combination;
fungicide and insecticide. So it kills anthills, grub
worms, beetles, things like that. And in addition, it’s also a fungicide. It prevents things like dollar spot, and a lot of the fungus the lawn can get whenever you get a lot of rain. An alternative to this, is to use, what I’ve done in the past,
was to use Milky Spore and Advion ant bait, so it depends. Price-wise, you come out about the same. It just depends on whether or not you want to go a more organic route, which is like what Milky
Spore is and Advion ant bait. Or if you want something
that’s more of a chemical, but works very well. This I put down at the
beginning of the season, you only have to put it
down once and you’re done. This covers about 8,000 square feet, but I don’t put it down at bag rate. I run I think my Scotts spreader
at like 2 1/2 with this, so I cover the entire lawn. I don’t actually put
this down at bag rate, I put it down lighter than bag rate. And as you can tell, that seems to work. I don’t have any fungus, no
ants, none of that stuff. So that seems to work out okay. You got your fertilizers,
your slow-organic-release, completely organic
fertilizer Milorganite,. You’ve got your synthetic, your fast-release, Lebanon ProScape. And then you’ve also got your
fungicide and insecticide. I don’t have any pre-emergent here, I would show you guys that, but at the beginning of the season, I also put down a pre-emergent. I think it’s called Spectracide.
I think Bayer makes it, but I’ll put a link in the description, actually in the description, I’ll have a link to a blog post where I cover all this
again in more detail with links of where you
can find all this stuff and a little bit more explanation. If we’re recapping at the
beginning of the season, this goes down first, the Caravan-G, along with the pre emergent. And then followed up with Milorganite, around the beginning of when
the sun starts getting hot, when it starts getting hot in Georgia. I put down the Lebanon ProScape, this goes down like late May, early June, and you really only need
to put this down one time during the entire season, because, again, it releases
over the course of three months. And again, you don’t need
to go heavy with this stuff. It truly is a really, really good product. This is about $30 for a bag of it. Milorganite, depending
on where you get it, you get it online for I’ve
seen it just as much as $30. You can probably find it
locally, perhaps a bit cheaper, but you have to shop around. And then the Caravan-G, there’s
fungicide and insecticide, this is like $70 a bag. So it’s kind of expensive, but if you compare it to
like the organic route of Milky Spore and the Advion ant bait, it comes out to be about the same. And it saves you the headache of having to apply two different products. So, that’s what I do from a
chemical standpoint, right? A major horticultural
practices standpoint. In addition, late last year and this year, I’ve also started trying
out a growth regulator, PGR, what Planet Growth Regulator does, is it slows down the
stem growth of the grass. So instead of having to mow the grass really almost every day
to keep it at this height, I’m mowing it three times a week now. So it slows down the growth. It’s not required, you don’t have to do it, but it just saves you
from having to be out here every other day mowing the grass. I’m out here anyway doing
it because I enjoy it, but if you want to, you
can consider also PGR. The link to the PGR
that is used on my lawn and where you can get it is in that post, in the description. So just check that out and
you’ll be good to go from there. As far as water requirements, Bermuda doesn’t really
require that much water. What it does need is heat. So the more heat you have, the better. Bermuda requires about an
inch of water per week. This year in Georgia we’ve
had quite a bit of rain, but there’s a stretch there
we went like 2 1/2 weeks without a drop, and I didn’t water and the turf still looked
really, really good. As you maintain it and
you keep it healthy, you keep nutrients in it, the water requirements
don’t necessarily go up. It’s actually a pretty good grass. Again, it’s really hard to hurt Bermuda. So it’s a great grass for
this kind of a project, As far as the mower. Again, the most important aspect. If I had to put it in percentages, 80% of what you see
here after top dressing, and top dressing is important
for it to be smooth. But once top dressing is done, 80% of having the lawn look like this, comes down to the mower. Now you have a couple of options, You can use something
like this, a Tru-Cut, which is a powered a rear mower. I have a review on this one
that I did here recently. So if you guys want,
you can check that out, check out other videos on my channel. I’ll also link it in the description to the link to this video for that guy. You can run something like this, or you can do what I did
for the first two years, which is use a push rear
mower, like one from Scotts. So from Scotts you have an
option of like a 20 inch or a 16 inch. I’ve used both the 20 inches better. You cover less passes. And it’s just a better made mower. It’s a little bit heavier, so it cuts the grass a bit better. But I’d never gotten the turf
to look like how it looks now until I switched to this. If you want to see the grass how it used to look like before, go to my season two, my earlier season one
and season two videos of my golf course lawn project. And you’ll those outline there, but this guy’s really, really important. This is like the most important aspect of getting the lawn to look like this. And not inexpensive, again, these are around $2,000 brand new. You can find them in the used market for a lot less than that. You can pick up a Tru-Cut for
under a $1,000 on Craigslist. So, that’s another option too. But again, as far as the blueprint for creating a golf course lawn, for an outline it’s top dressing
to get the surface smooth, and then mowing frequency. So again, you can’t be cutting
the grass every two weeks, this is going to be a
several-time-per-week commitment. And then the fertilizers you use. Milorganite is a staple,
ProScape is like a stack, and then you’ve got like your
fungicide and insecticide to keep all the nasty stuff away. So if you had to think about it, this is like your pre-workout and your post-workout in the gym. Milorganite and ProScape,
that’s your stack that really allows you to make your gains. And then this is just,
whatever, your vitamins to kind of keep everything
and keep the lawn healthy and just not have moles
and ants and grub worms and that kind of stuff
destroying the turf. Yeah, so that’s it. That’s my blueprint. That is what I did to
create what you see here. It seems to work. Again, I really enjoyed it. It’s like a little side hobby of mine, I hope you guys found this useful. If you have any questions, comments, please leave them in
the comment box below, like, subscribe, share this video. And again, I look forward to talking
to you guys in the comments. Have a wonderful, wonderful day.

How to get a golf course lawn is a goal held by most lawn care enthusiasts. This video is a complete step-by-step guide for creating a golf course lawn. I outline the 7 key steps to make your lawn look like a a golf course. Top dressing, fertilizer, fungicide, insecticide, herbicide and watering are all discussed in detail. Creating a golf course lawn take a lot of consistent work to get a great results in your lawn care program

Making your lawn look like a golf course starts with top dressing. This smooths out the uneven surfaces and allows the reel mower to produce a nice low cut without scalping the lawn. Top dressing is very important to the process. Next, applying the correct combination of fertilizer really helps feed the Bermuda grass lawn; especially when mowed at lower heights. We need to keep weeds and insects like ants and grub worms out of your lawn. I like the Caravan G product since it’s a combination fungicide and insecticide. I’ve found it to be incredibly effective against grub worms, ants and lawn moles.

Once you’re doing all those things, it really comes down to mowing. Generally speaking, the more frequently you mow, the better your lawn will look. The rule for having green grass between mowing, is to not remove more than 1/3 the total height of the grass at any one time. What this means is that as you start mowing lower, you will also need to mow more often in order to keep the grass green between mowing sessions. In order to reduce having to mow your golf course lawn all the time, consider using a plant growth regulator product like T-Nex or Tide Paclo 2SC. These products can cut how often you have to mow in half when applied correctly. If you have any questions, be sure to let me know in the comments below!

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❤️ Top Videos
Create Your Golf Course Lawn: https://youtu.be/t7phQgmQwIc
How to Top Dress Your Lawn: https://youtu.be/wTNfxCmpOGE
Zoysia Grass vs. Bermuda Grass: https://youtu.be/f-OmHMuBp3k
How to Apply Milorganite: https://youtu.be/YhEB1B9AkJA
Tru Cut Reel Mower Review: https://youtu.be/rY2d4SJFscE
How to Overseed Your Lawn: https://youtu.be/ty4lc178cCI
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